Hm… they look a bit short. Short was never mine, but maybe you have some 200mm sr rkps you want to send me???
I just sent shock blocks to Andy with this same name because I didn’t know his actual last name. The post lady lol’d and questioned it as a real name.
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I hope they will not ask me for passport on the Post Office than
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Last name is 87
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Good that not 69 
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How are the maker vescs holding up?
EDIT: Where can I get those cute things for the antispark btw?
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I didn’t drive the last 5month maybe, because it’s not the right board for the winter and I wait some parts to switch to 5065 motors.
The last thing I did was updating the FW to 3.6x I think. After that I got DRV faults on the bench when connected to lipos and hard accelerating, but not on my LiIon pack. Changing back to FW 3.48 didn’t change anything. So I need to see how that works in future. What I did as well in the last time, I added some heat sinks as they very easy and fast got close to the thermal throttle limit.
For just cruising it was ok and still in the limit, but if you ride stop and go a lot it’s a bit an issue.
The loopkeys are made by me. Just get cheap usb sticks from Ali and use one side to cover the top of the xt90s. It’s just glued on with some epoxy.
I see, did they hit thermal limit when you had them on 30A or was it higher? He has a new “plus” version on his site that is supposed to be able to handle 50A.
Please update when you get the 5065 motors! Which ones are you getting?
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You can check the mini maker x thread.
I posted some metr logs with settings.
Did even a stop and go log like 100m acceleration than brake till stop and again acceleration for 100m etc.
Just scroll through the thread from here
I already have a set of 5065 racerstar motors, but missing trucks, motor mounts and maybe pulleys and belts if the ones I have do not fit.
Hope I get things together in the next 3-4 weeks and till than the weather should be good enough for a ride for sure again.
If you decide to get a set of them and you have the space I would definitely go with the 50A version.
For the 30A version I found some heat sinks which fit exactly the size, but as I said, I did not try it out on the road, so can’t say how much it will help cooling them.
If anything, add caps on the powerleads, wont hurt 
I thought about that as well from the first time you mentioned it 
Still need to find out which ones I need exactly.
The higher voltage the better(and more expensive) 500-800uF should be enough.
If you parallell two 470uF that will equal 940uF f.e
And just cut the main power leads isolation a bit and solder them on?
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Yeah that’ll do, try to isolate the solder spots afterwards tho, do it as close to the esc as you dare, you can bend the caps down to go along the powerleads afterwards.
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Would seal the solder point up with some liquid tape after. Should be fine than.
Thx for the help. Will ask for some caps next time I’m in my electronics shop close by.
Reused some old caps I found on old escs.
@linsus any constructive feedback on that installation? I think better than nothing and as close as I could get them as I need to bend the main power leads later 90 degree.
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Should do fine Try make sure they dont vibrate too much once inside an enclosure, if something breaks on your escs, itsbound to be those caps. They dont last forever sadly
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I have the “stock” 560uF caps on them, would adding a bigger one higher up on the power lead (like battery side, before the Y connection) help ?
(I wasn’t concerned as i was planning to use them on 6s, but i just got my hands on a 12s bat)
The electrolytics should be as close to the ESC as possible. The further away the more cap you’ll effectivly lose. Try to use caps that are rated for 25% above your operating voltage. Else they wont have much cap left to give.
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