The Rip City MTB | DWII | Stormcore | Matrix II | Dual 6380/190kv | 12S | Idea v7.8 mounts

I’ve built a few small boards, one with the Hummie deck and hubs, but always wanted to do a mountainboard. Been putting this one together the last few months. This is ‘The Rip City’:

-MBS DWII Pro 97 (added red Rockstar II hubs, F5 heel straps)
-Idea Matrix II motor mounts v7.8 (I took them to a local shop and had them anodized in red to match the theme of the board) 15t steel motor pulley. 72t aluminum hub pulley (1:4.8 gear ratio)
-Tattu 14000mAh 25C 6S1P lipo x2 wired in series (gonna try this at 12S and then look to upgrade battery later)
-Dual TB 6380 190kv
-Lacroix Stormcore 60D
-surfnacho’s InfinitySink and top mount box
-Controller, two options:
Puck Puck Bruce / Hoyt St. mod controller w/ new nubbed wheel and Metr Pro internally
OR Trampa Wand (I like having data display in-hand)
-Junction box for batteries (10.4”x7.2”x3.7”)
-Waterproof 90 degree cable gland for top mount box

Total weight: 33.6lbs (15.2kg)

Painting and frit

I live just a few miles from Bullseye Glass ( so I decided to do a custom paint and glass frit job.
First, I sanded down the deck to remove the shiny protective coat.

Once sanded, I spray painted it matte black.

Then I added 2 red racing stripes on the top.

On the back I decided to paint the Portland downtown skyline. I designed it on my computer, printed it out, cut that out as a stencil, then penciled it in on the deck.

Then I painted it following my light pencil markings.

Now to seal this all in. I went with Helmsman water-based spar urethane. Not smelly, easy to work with, easy to clean. The one 22oz can will last for dozens of boards. Took about two hours to dry between coats, though I’m really patient and mostly just did one coat each day. Did four coats on each side. I tired to really lightly sand before each new coat but I’m not sure it did much and I didn’t want to do too far and ruin the paint job beneath. After each coat (while still wet) I was careful to check the edge of the deck all the way around to make sure there weren’t any drips. If there were I just smoothed them out w/ the brush.
Now for the frit. I picked up Bullseye clear transparent medium frit. In retrospect I wish I had gone with the fine frit instead of medium. Medium is pretty beefy/sharp/overkill. Started by masking the area within the foot straps.

Layed down one coat of spar, then immediately sprinkled the frit evenly across the area. I used an empty cinnamon spice container w/ perfect holes to evenly spread the glass.

Used a pair of tweezers to drop a few more pieces of frit where holes needed to be filled in. I removed the blue tape before it dried to ensure clean removal.

Let that dry at least a few hours.
At this point the frit is barely held in place so it’s important to add four top coats of spar, letting each coat dry before adding the next coat.

Motor Mounts

Idea set me up with the right motor mounts for my matrix II’s which are notorious for not all being exactly the same length. I was able to measure mine once they arrived and idea made me the exact crossbar I needed.

Then I took it to a local shop and had it anodized in red to match my color scheme. We’ll see how well the color on the aluminum holds up to scrapes/chips.


Painted the junction box to match the stripes on the deck.

3D printed XT90 panel mount for the battery box. Dremel’d a hole to glue the mount into.

Junction box is attached to the deck with two bolts, large washer to distribute pressure, and 1/4" adhesive foam between the deck and box to pad it/reduce rattle.

I’ve got the Stormcore mounted inside surfnacho’s top mount box. I ordered the version with the “foot side” entrance for the +/- power cables, but found that was a really tight fit next to the toe straps. Notice how there’s no room to ratchet the straps tighter:

Had to drill 4 new holes in the top mount’s base plate in order to shift the box far enough away from the ratchet straps.

Decided to cut a new hole for power to come in heel side. Main concern was to keep the cables fairly close to the box and straps to eliminate their chance of getting snagged on something while riding. Everything is SO tight inside this box. Can’t fit even the smallest USB-C cable into the Stormcore unless you pop it out of the panel mount box a bit.

Final touches

Added cable wrap to keep things tidy and match the color scheme

Locktighted all the screws, padded the inside of the battery enclosure

Inflated the tires, and she’s ready to roll! Cruised around the park for the first time today and this thing crushes through sticks/debris. I’ve never had a deck with foot straps and they make it so much easier to carve deeply without fear of falling off.

I’ve got it set at 45A/-40A battery amps on each side, and 150A/-70A motor amps. Gotta find some hills because so far I haven’t come close to those limits!

I’m actually a bit sad that I’m done building this. It was so much fun to problem-solve each step along the way. It has an impressive amount of power compared to anything I’ve made before. Makes it so much fun to ride. Now what do I build next? hehe


This is my kinda build! Great work on the enclosure. Our builds are very similar and I’d feel very comfortable and honored to hop on your deck sometime.

1 Like

Super nice dude.
You will love this thing.
The mounts look extra awesome in red.

1 Like

wow you’re right! Even down to the junction box haha

1 Like

Clearly a great minds situation. Well hopefully Carve PDX is still on this year and you can bring this beauty.

1 Like

That looks really good! Love the color scheme. Imo, the only thing missing is adding that sweet cityscape graphic to the side of the enclosure. And maybe adding this to the other side.


I love that idea! Gonna make it happen. It was a shame to hide a painting underneath where no one will ever see it


Awesome build, true DIY spirit here!

I really can’t recommend the trampa wand, in fact everyone who has tried it calls it utter bulllshit lol.
I would recommend either waiting and getting a FREESK8 remote, hopefully availability soon, or if you can’t wait, the Maytech R2 waterproof split trigger remote is pretty nice. It might not be called the R2, is has the longest bloody name but you’ll see what I mean. It’s entirely waterproof and the receiver has 2 relay channels, meaning you add some lights or a horn and control these via a button on your remote :smiley:.

1 Like

nice build, the trampa wand is shiiiiit unless you shove it up your ass then you can really “feel the magic”


Love the portland skyline you made, and how you made it using printed stencils. Smart! :slight_smile:

1 Like

I’ve currently got it connected to a Wand (trying it out), but I’ve got a spare Puck Puck Bruce and am excited to try out the FreeSK8 remote when they become available. What are the main complaints w/ the Wand? Cutouts? Ergonomics? People don’t like Trampa? I have noticed (in limited tests) that it doesn’t always feel responsive; something just not as “natural” feeling about it. But I’ve also never ridden an eMTB. I should switch to the Puck for a few rides to do a side-by-side

1 Like

all of that haha.

Seriously, it’s been reported after one crash it just doesn’t work. Heard that the trigger breaks. responsiveness as you mentioned in funky, as well as radio communication is extremely bad, to the point of if you place your remote in front of your leg it looses connection. the antenna must be really well placed.
and of course the usual trampa hate. some of their products are great, like ESC’s, tires, and boards, all of which are overpriced but anyhow, and other products are absolute shit. There’s mixed opinion, but most of the hate is usually generated by Frank (who runs the @ trampa account, because of his, may i say, very personal point-of-view of how things are or should be done.

Enough of the Derail!

1 Like

Good choice of components except the WAND, throw it faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar away!
If you want to commit suicide or are an extreme adrenaline junkie then it is highly recommended.

I am not joking the WAND is a joke! I wanted to shoot a video destroying and burning it but I am not sure if it’s a good move.

In all seriousness, my remote (including spare PCB) had life threatening defects and I am glad to be healthy. For example randomly sometimes the remote gave 100% throttle. It happened also several times when riding really fast off-road eg. on grass thinking jesus I should ride slower. Then the great WAND says “no now you ride the possible top speed”. Fortunately when hitting the brakes the magic acceleration stopped but I didn’t know it the first time.

Another time I was riding, everything as usual but when I wanted to brake for the first time I realized the brakes didn’t work!!! Holy fuck I was so lucky that it was not riding down a hill but it still was dangerous. What else? Sometimes the motors didn’t work just stottering then sometimes no throttle reaction for 2-3 seconds, sometimes cut outs.

Also every now and then the lever got stuck.

I’m sure I forgot the other faults but I never had this problems before and after the WAND with exactly the same setup, nothing changed.

Sorry for the rant but I just answered your question :man_shrugging:.

Enjoy your new board and the rides :metal:


as @rich the wand has frequent cut outs from signal loss. the fuckin 100% throttle shit for me would happen half way up a ramp to jump and boi does it hurt. thumb throttle can get stuck (you need to bend it back). the potentiometer is weak as shit and is also the reason for full throttle problem. it has no water resistance and just randomly mine started constantly drain battery (and it was not down to a faulty firmware update). throttle lag when you let go, but the aluminium case is strong


I’m putting together a spare Hoyt Puck (moving it’s guts into a Bruce shell I had laying around) as we speak :slight_smile:

1 Like