No offense, but that looks like a very slight turn and you’re not even running the trucks in drop through! 
5 Likes
It’s actually back online with a new look as-of today.
1 Like
I mean it’s not ideal…I’ll probably make something like a G-Bomb bracket for it down the line but right now I don’t have anywhere near enough time
2 Likes
Yep saw that. Even though I’ll never be active there I’m still glad that it’s running, might archive some threads that I’ve really wanted to read over again before they’re lost.
1 Like
Peculiar way to express your feelings @will_manners 
, with you lexic I’m sure I could have got laid more when I was younger
When I lean with all my weight my bergmeisters do not touch the deck on dropthrough.
4 Likes
So, 50 degree Surf Rodz RKP with a 200mm hanger, and shortest possible shoulder bolts. TB 110mm wheels.
Bustin Sportster:
No wheel bite at all! Trucks don’t go further! This was a big shock to me, because right now my brother has been pushing the sportster with 90mm wheels, and he does get some wheel-bite on hard turns with caliber trucks. Check it out:
I am running the Surf Rodz truck with positive rake, but even then, the hanger is clearly further away from the deck. Doing a side-by-side comparison, it appears that surf rodz with positive rake are about 2cm further away than a caliber hanger would be. Wow! 
Then, for my own interest, I tested with a Switchblade:
Getting some wheel-bite before I can max out my turn on this one. The wheel goes perfectly into the wheel-well, so to clear the deck you’d need to extend your hanger / axle by like 6cm on each side, which seems quite unrealistic.
I think that with 45 degree trucks this might be a perfect set-up, and the board definitely looks hot af with the wheel well flairs so close to the wheels with this setup. But for practicalities sake, I think you’d be better off mounting the truck one set of holes further to completely eliminate wheel-bite.
Still trying to wrap my head around how Bergmeisters work with this deck and trucks. Still don’t have longer axles to test unfortunately 
10 Likes
Haha thank you 
In reality I rarely resort to relying on such colourful language to describe similar stories, but if it makes someone laugh than its served its purpose I guess 
This has been invaluable information! That really puts any fitment issue to rest! Can’t wait to assemble the deck first for a bit of pushing and carving 
Still to do:
- Determine what mounts to use with the correct pulleys.
- Select what AT setup would match seamlessly with the chosen motor mounts.
- Find the best supplier for Molicell’s, my go to NKON no longer ships to Australia, period
- Purchase the best spot welder based on price to performance and reliability. The Boss spot welder seems good value but reliability appears compromised? The Kweld seems to fix those issues but costs a but tonne relative to the Boss welder and both seem to be oos.
Additional ideas on the aforementioned tasks would be rad 
2 Likes
If you plan to build at least 2-3 batteries, it’s worth purchasing a quality spot welder like the kweld. But if this build will be your last for a good while, then just paying a known battery builder would be the better option. I know that @glyphiks is in Australia and makes good stuff.
1 Like
Might not find him here.
Try https://forum.freesk8.org/u/glyphiks/summary
or
glyphiks@gmail.com
3 Likes
That’s the big question, I’m not sure yet. Currently I’m leaning towards building more in the future so will look more into the Kweld.
I’ll get in contact with @glyphiks on FreeSk8 and see what he reckons. It’s a real fucking shame what’s happened with so many upstanding, contributing members being more or less shafted in the ass over some dropkick bullshit behavior. But whatever, I’m derailing my own thread, will edit this out perhaps…
1 Like
Cool, cheers Will.
1 Like
Just purchased XTLA’s mounts for SR RKP’s, faaaaaak yeah they look sicc.
Have updated and re-arranged the original post to prioritise the build specs over my constant rambling… I’ve always appreciated brevity and build porn and I’m sure the majority here feel the same
Have also chosen @Boardnamics Kegel pulleys, will most likely purchase those today.
BMS
This is the one thing that’s up in the air… there seems to be no perfect option (there never will be I guess). The LLT smart BMS is my perfect combination of features and cost but it’s gigantic, will most likely purchase anyway in the hopes of squeezing it in. The best option seems to be the Neptune 15 but that costs a fuckton… I really just want a charge only small BMS to remotely check individual cells for peace of mind.
@Andy87 (iirc) consistently advocates for external balance chargers but a sufficiently powerful one costs significantly more than a Neptune 15 and a 6012 DC power supply put together, and simply isn’t anywhere near as clean. @Whitepony (if anyone remembers him from builders and endless sphere) infamously never used a BMS nor balance wires to consistently check cells. Soooo, the simplest outcome hopefully is that I’ll be able to squeeze in that chonk of a thing from LLT.
6 Likes
I wouldn’t put it down to the costs.
I mean, who is building only one pack/board anyway 
Just getting through the math, 4 packs a 40$ for a LLT plus 80$ for a charger will top you out at 240$ (minimum). For that money you get a good balance charger which can change with different voltages and different currents.
Even if you build only one pack you can still build your own „balance“ charger just using a power supply and wire the smart bms externally.
Same cost and you can use it on different boards later if needed, plus no bt modul which constantly draw current.
It all just comes down to the fact, do I want to plug in a balance plug and a charge plug or is that too much for me aaand, do I like that there is a balance port looking out of the enclosure.
2 Likes
BMS is tough. The D140 is around 7mm max but the bolt and nuts can be 10mm total thickness. The LLT 20 amp is 10mm thick across size, which is also bigger
I really like having the ability to monitor the cells with the LLT and I committed to getting it to fit. I also let my perfectionist side takeover and refused to use a gasket over 1/4”. The addition of a heatsink made it impossible to fit the BMS without a 13mm gasket after compression, so I went with a lot of extra work to the deck.
I’m not sure what the thickness on the stormcore is, but the LLT will be a PITA. @eboosted snuck a d140 in his board.
Mounts look great!
1 Like
The 'naner clearly deserves more attention here 
4 Likes
Bro, don’t do that with the pack. Nanner needs much more love in the battery pack
3 Likes
Fair.
Do you have a balance charger you recommend?
You’ve most likely convinced me to simply use the LLT as an external BMS. The additional ports required aren’t exactly convenient but it’s really not a deal breaker.
Your build thread has been an amazing resource! I saw what you went through to make everything fit, I definitely don’t have the skills or the tools necessary to do the same thing! The D140 is certainly discrete but not being able to wirelessly monitor each p group doesn’t give me the confidence to use it. The Stormcore is certainly more chonk than the unity but it should fit.
Trust me, I’m struggling to get a little separation between a metr antenna, Hoyt receiver and the BT receiver for the BMS with a charge port and a fuse to fit on the other side with the XT90. And thats around the unity
2 Likes
good build, very similar to my sportster build. im also using 110mm wheels on TB Caliber II 218mm clones, im a bit sketchy that it will bite on a hard turn if the board flexes at the moment its looking at about 5mm clearance with 91A riptide bushings and 96A pivot cup.
1 Like