Re do e detection, make sure the pick is in mode 3 (high) and that you max and min the throttle 3 or 4 times to get the accurate neutral.
Thanks mike, I think sayekim is right! Have a few issues with the metr unity module. I have to connect to the unity app to calibrate the remote but metr fw 4.5 crashed the unity app and 4.6 does connect but can’t write settings. So I changed back to the stock unity BT module, calibrated. Then back to metr module and I just saw the startup mode is restricted to 50kmh/30mph via erpm limit - thats it!
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It sounds like maybe there’s an issue with all the different hardware. Have you tried going back to the stock unity module and calibrating? If that works, record the values, change back to the METR then manually input the values you recorded.
Pretty sure its nothing related to the puck, its metr.
I am just to lazy to open the enclosure but I have to… 
don’t want to miss my first hoyt puck ride and its already midnight.
There are still some bugs in metr unity. Tcp bridge is not working so to make the 15% deadzone smaller for the hoyt puck I have to use focbox tool over usb.
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you know when you are in a hurry and that damned pc decides to do a 20min update?
confirmed, its metr. everything is fine now and I am out for a ride! 
Edit, and back. I needed a few minutes to adjust to the formfactor. The throttlewheel is placed deeper into the casing as I am used to. So until now I placed my whole thumb on throttlewheels but with the hoyt puck I have to use only the tip of my thumb otherwise there is too much friction between thumb and casing. And the throw is a bit longer.
This thing feels premium. Looks is one thing but on a ride its even better.
- Whatever mode - full brakes available (almost got me!)
- First time I adjusted deadzone on a remote - man it feels great!
- Receiver range is better than any remote I used, I feel safe!
- Its smooth
- Love the vibes
- Did I mention looks?
Huge thank you to Mike who sent me the puck to Switzerland!
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(2) QQ:
A: do the LED provide a battery level function for either the remote or board?
B: will this remote make me uncharacteristically attractive to the fairer sex? @mmaner’s review mentioned the throttle lock was used to avoid runaway board when flirting with baristas. i’m married and esk8 has already gotten me in enough trouble.
Apologies if this is documented and i missed
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A: Unfortunately no.
B: Only if they’re strangely attracted to wood.
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I do want it, but where are they? The wood version has been “sold out” on their website for a while. The plastic version is imminent ?!?
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Around the middle/end of November from what I heard talking to the Hoyt guys, they’re out of their recievers rn
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According to their website, receivers are in and the new nylon puck is in.
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@jack.luis thoughts on what this may be? Looks blown, but not entirely from an electrical perspective. No noticeable problems stemming from it, just noticed during a tear down for other reasons.
Send that back to us, we will fix it for free
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So, it’s not the potentiometer leads. I’ve already reinforced all of those long ago (edit - have reinforced pot leads on other remotes, just realized this is one that hasn’t been yet & I snapped the pic of the diode in question before topping off the pot leads w/a hefty dose of solder. I assure you they are well solder blobbed & reinforced at this point). This is the very small diode(?) that happens to be placed closely to the pot leads.
@jack.luis given the fact it’s not the potentiometer leads, but the tiny diode next to it - & that the remote is otherwise working completely fine, I’m not too worried but do appreciate the offer.
I’m just curious as to what the diode does (& possibly its part number for digikey/mouser) in the circuit & what may have made it blow.
Waaay the fuck back I opened up my shell for other reasons & happened to find 3 of the larger black pcb diodes floating around, from being mechanically displaced from their solder pads for whoever knows why/how long. Everything was working fine without them too 
Edit: or wait, am I being dumb & its not a diode, but just a pad that needs solder bridging it for whatever reasons? Didn’t look at it under a magnifying glass.
Oh no. Looks like drunk somebody let pot reinforcing epoxy (after solder, ofc) spill over onto whatever the thingy I’m referring to is. Probably nbd at this point.
Btw @jack.luis
This is @Jansen ’s remote.
He tells me he sent in a different PCB for repair around 9 months ago, & never heard back about repair.
Not sure the entirety of the details, I’m just the messenger. If you could possibly look into that tho, would be great.
Well that’s not right! Definitely gonna get this sorted out ASAP. I’m not in charge of CS but I will be getting to the bottom of it this Monday.
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That looks like it is for the LEDs that they embed in the nose of the board as a battery level indicator.
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Give this man a cigar.
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