Nice little build there btw and 12s? I’m surprised you decided on that. Can you not trust yourself to not use all the throttle?
Is that sand on the road? Looks mank, you’re a hardy soul doing this year round
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12s lifepo4 
so all is good 
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It’s 43.8V
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Tried any high end steel bearings made especially for enduro?
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So still less than certain antispark solutions.
Also this is a solid fuckin build man. I love seeing stuff built out by people who build for commuting
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love that loop key… I’m so copying that 
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Nice to see a build thread from you!
How many layers of conformal coat did you use on the focbox?
And how do you waterproof the bullet and other wire connections?
I am thinking about using picture mounting putty on the jst-ph connectors for sensors etc. to keep water out and preventing them from rattling loose.
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@b264 did you post this on the other forum because I don’t remember seeing it at all. I am loving the retro board though.
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I was very careful not to get more than 1 layer of acrylic conformal coating on the direct FETs. The rest of it has a few layers of silicone conformal coating.
The connections I solder together, put silicone conformal coating on the solder joint, and while it’s still wet, heat-shrink tubing around it, then put conformal coating around the ends of the heatshrink.
The bullet connectors I just put heatshrink over it and seal the ends. That also keeps them from rattling apart under vibration. The jst-ph connectors on the PCB I just plug in, then cover with silicone conformal coating. Sometimes I go back over those with urethane conformal coating.
edit 2020 May 08: I only use acrylic conformal coating now on PCBs, it seems to work better.
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What other forum? I just put it here.
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I’ve just been using a standard epoxy on my carvon cans. I can’t see needing high heat unless the motors often get piping hot. I’ll report my findings once they’ve got a few km’s.
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I need to up my ESC protection game, good stuff
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hahahahahahahhahhahahahhahhaha omg i’m … ahhahahahahahhahhahaha
Sorry, that was very unprofessional. snort
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I changed the wheels to 110mm and a 40T pulley. Knocked about 2.2 mph (3.5 km/h) off the top-end and added a little bit of torque. Put CaliberE hangers on instead of Caliber2. I think this is getting closer to the final form.
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With those massive TEBW’s (torqueboards extremely big wheels) this reminds me of a closeup of a toy skateboard, which I know it isn’t, since it’s not a hobby and mini vans and soccer moms etceterrah…
I love it nonetheless
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You could 3D print the two rings on the deck topside put them on a real board, then wear one of these
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If I want to charge at 4A and 2A what fuse ratings are you recommend? Is there any advantage of the shape of fuse you are using over the ones inside a glass tube?
I would just approximately double the maximum current you want to charge at. It doesn’t matter so much which fuse you use.
This is a good one, and it’s physically very small and easy to solder to
58VDC 7.5A
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/576-099707.5WXN
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I bought a similar one today, 5A for 2A charging and 7.5A for 4A. I just considred the glass one because they sell a holder with it, but thought vibrations might cause trouble and therefore soldering it directly is stronger. Thanks for the info!
Is it a bad idea to wrap it in heatshrink?
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