The battery builders club

My esk8 shenanigan hiatus finally ended:








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Hate to be that guy but you can tell that you’ve been gone for a while since you’re still using nickel for series connections in a flat pack :zipper_mouth_face:

I suppose with a rigid deck like that you’re probably okay though

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+1 For nickel series connections are no good.

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Nickel series connections * in a flat-pack design * are not good, due to the low cross-section and risk of flexing.

For brick style packs with more cross-sectional area and less flex, they are excellent.

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Also nickel series connections will get hot af if you pull some amps. That is if you’re just using a 8mm strip like you did.

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really fucking dumb, but I told you this in person. Hope you changed your settings

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Yeah I did lol

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You really don’t have a choice in the CGT deck unfortunately. He’s got the space maxed out putting that many cells in there. Looks like the nickel is lawyered up and the evolve controller is probably pulling 30A tops, so the current support is fine. With the completely stiff deck it will likely survive. But yeah it breaks most conventions we like to follow these days.

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Yeah looks pretty tight, only thing I can think is nickel braid or copper braid would be more resilient

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Ive never seen or heard of this before. Links?

Isn’t it just the silver braid stuff?

Edit: Maybe it’s just pre tinned copper braid

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Yep the only things I have seen are tinned copper braid and un-tinned copper braid. I suppose someone probably makes aluminum wire braid, but I dont think any of us want that.

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Nice.

I’d say the only thing I’d probably add is some fish paper on top of the balance tabs. It’d add a bit more protection against the CF lid over time.


this happened while my son was attending class. Remote was off and it heated up while in a bag . He rode the board to class and had to drag the board 30 min back after class. Remote went into meltdown after riding. Any ideas why or how?

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Shit quality cells. Get some high quality AAs, they last twice as long as the cheapos and also won’t initiate a nuclear meltdown in your pocket.

If they were shit wouldnt they just die faster and not melt down in an hours time with the remote off.

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I’d bet my money on an internal short circuit, which would come down to shitty quality control. I would still check the remote though, could be that something broke and is now shorting the cells.

Ok sayin this did happen why would both the cells overheat?

Could be two things, either one became so hot that it damaged the other one or, as I said, something in the remote broke and is now shorting the cells. Number two can be checked easly though, just get some cells, put them in there and check if they get hot.

If that is a mini remote, you need to put a small amount of foam behind the negative terminals to ensure proper/constant compression. Some of them have QC issues where the negative terminal gets bent too far back and barely has contact, increasing resistance. That combined with poop cells that may have a slight length discrepancy vs something like a Duracell could’ve caused too much resistance, heat, and then melting.

Potentially an issue on the PCB/Wiring though.