Make your own using blade spade connectors
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kinda puzzles me that this was not already a method used by people who do all silicone everything like a lot of us.
Might have just failed to notice.
I guess a lot of us also just solder axial fuses to xt30 loopkeys or whatever, more reliable than blades and we have those connectors.
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I went to a small auto part store once and asked for that fancy online fuse holder. The old dude there threw spade connectors on the counter and said to use that instead.
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I think he didnāt have the in-line ones
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you could solder a blade fuse to the xt30 loopkey too. you could make it externally serviceable as well then
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If this were for a custom job or a DIY, I would definitely do that. But it aint, so I gotta go for a certain level of polish.
Is this superficial rust caused by flux and high temps or will I be ripping it apart after my salt water test? And what other problems can anybody point out for me here lol
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Nickel does not rust. Looks like steel.
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High temp canāt cause rust on its own. You need water.
Flux residue wonāt cause rust on its own but can absorb moisture (which can then rust steel).
Nickel-plated steel can rust at the weld-points when the welding process blows through the plating.
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If you have a dremel (or other high speed abrasive tool that can generate sparks), touch that strip with it.
Pure nickel does not spark, full stop.
Nickel plated steel will spark just as if it were plain steel.
Much faster than salt water, and less invasive too.
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Hi battery builders.
I want to get a new bigger battery built for me but first Iām hoping to get some advice on what to ask for.
(I posted this in noob thread, but hoping to get a response here where the battery people are)
The existing 21700 12s3p battery is 39x14cm.
The flat bottom of the enclosure is 59x17cm.
So if a 12s4p is 25% longer it would be 49x14. That would leave 10cm for the focbox and bms to live in - if I stack 'em that seems workable as long as I carefully route the wires around instead of over the stack.
(Iād get rid of that bizarre nest of gender-changing and xt-to-bullet adapters)
Iām thinking it should be fine to heat sink the focbox into the bms since it isnāt used during discharge.
Alternately it seems like cells could be arranged in a 8 by 6 configuration which should be around 17x42cm which might even allow me to not stack the electronics. Is that possible for 12s4p? Do the cells pack so tightly that 8 side-by-each can fit in 17cm?
Actually Iām guessing it would be more like 17x43cm since there would be tabs and whatnot between each row but that should also be workable I think.
This looks like itās the propulsion board enclosure? Assuming so, a 12S4P will fit by arranging the cells 8 wide and 6 long, 425x175 plus BMS. Iāve built one with smart BMS to fit it before.
Also did I build that pack? lol. Looks a lot like my construction
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Wow did you? Yup itās a propulsion. I had a hissy fit because they couldnāt make my board right away because they didnāt have any batteries in from China at the moment - so they said OK OK weāll get a local guy to build one right now - that local must have been you.
What a crazy coincidence.
OK thanks - 8x6 it is.
Whatās the absolute best 21700 cell to use for the 12s4p? I understand the existing pack has P42As.
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P42A is still the current king of esk8 2170 cells.
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Haha, yep I remember that they needed it ASAP!! I was trying to figure out why I didnāt know who you were lol
Def use P42A.
I suppose 12s5p is out of the question, right?
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Yeah, unless you wanted to double stack the cells and add a spacer/gasket to the enclosure, not much more room than 12S4P
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gnomore
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Iām planning on making a 3s2p pack to run some LED strips (~2-4A total) that will be used in temperatures around ~25F
How would a high current cell like the P42A compare to a high capacity cell like the M50A or model 3 cell at those temperatures?