The battery builders club

“Fresh”…with 2018 manufacturing dates. :face_with_symbols_over_mouth::face_with_symbols_over_mouth::face_with_symbols_over_mouth:

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18650 battery store, i only order from them or liion no one else

I talked to the company where M&A BD sources their cells, they said it was an old 2018 batch that had these wraps. I received 10 of these cells and got similar results as Mario.

I asked if they had any new cells, and they sent me a unique image of 2020 cells that look exactly the same as my known genuine cells. I’m getting a larger sample of these cells within the next two weeks to I will update then. They said if I have any problems I can return them to M&A BD for a full refund.

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If they even answer your emails. :face_with_symbols_over_mouth:

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So they’re saying the cells with the self-adhesive insulator rings are original E-One Moli wrapped cells?

Could you PM me the name of the company that sold those cells to M&A BD? I want to check with NPE and Moli about all this.

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Get’em Tiger!
:gun: :sunglasses:

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Mooch…Battery Mooch

The li-ion James Bond

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Just curious because I haven’t heard of this before, but why shouldn’t you use a meter to check a batteries voltage? I’m just wondering because I couldn’t think of a reason off the top of my head other than maybe increasing the likelihood or accidentally shorting something within the tight space of the charge port.


Difference between IR test
Bought it on Alibaba 2018batch
none self-adhesive ring

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I’m gonna go out on a limb and say it’s just that, it’s full pack voltage and is capable of full amperage… Until something pops. It’s just a matter of time of checking in the charge port that you slip and weld a multimeter probe to the xt-90 and regain molten copper from your build.

Checking your batteries with a multimeter is perfectly acceptable if you do it safely.

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Using a meter to check a battery’s voltage is fine.

Sticking a meter’s probes in a charge port is a big nono, because you’re likely to short the probes together and cause a Bad Thing.
Especially barrel jacks or GX-style aviation connectors with metallic housings.

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gottcha, I figured that was the case, but wanted to be sure in case there was something I was unaware of lol

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hey battery wizards, I am building a 12s4p p42a pack and I have a plenty of 25*0.15mm nickel strip from a previous build.
Do you think I can get away with that or I really should order some 0.2mm nickel? I am planning to use 3x 12awg cables for series connections, 10 awg to connect battery to the esc. It will be a street board with pneumatics(bergs) so I am not expecting crazy off road amps.

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That’ll be fiiiiiine

Personally i’d only use 2 x 12awg, thats heeeeaps

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you can get away with it in my opinion, it’s the series connection that take more of a beating

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thank you guys

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Thanks for going the extra mile and confronting these company’s. it really helps to start weeding out all the dangeras fakes out there. Really Appreciated.

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Something a bit different… after this pack had its first charge, cell 2 started losing voltage. After a few cycles it was still happening so out it comes.

Interesting to note, the only part of the wrap that got damaged during deconstruction was the tiny spots where i put the hot glue.

Welds were good tho :muscle:

Will replace the whole group for now, and individually test the retrieved cells to find the bad one

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Conclusion to my situation, M&A BD Electronics got back to me, sent a return label.

Cells are going back for a refund. Huzzah.

40Ts from 18650BattStore arrived, all check out as expected. Build will commence end of the week.

Thanks again folks for all the help and support. :pray:

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Curious, what would you normally do with the other good cells?

I usually keep them for flashlights, since that use is pretty innocuous.

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