Anyone have any recommendations for electronic grade silicone available on Amazon?
Just look for âneutral cureâ silicone
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This one says neutral curing but doesnât say electronics under uses. Thoughts? Also there seems to be a scarcity of neutral cure silicone in Canada 
If it smells like white vinegar (acetic acid) itâs the wrong stuff. If it smells like paint drying (methylethyl ketone oxime) or like your wifeâs nail polish remover (acetone) then itâs the right stuff.
GE Advanced Silicone 2*, color clear, in the 2.8oz containers, more than one of them. I buy boxes of twelve tubes but you may only need a couple.
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I thought one would be enough 
Iâll have to delay my building and buy higher volume from US
These are also available in the âPaintâ section of a local big-box home improvement store like Menardâs, Loweâs, or Home Depot if youâre in the US.
Theyâre the only esk8 part I buy offline in the USA.
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The one you shared says kitchen and bath and doesnât specify as neutral cure. How do you tell itâs okay before ordering?
I use it all the time, and it also says âWonât Blemish Metalsâ on the packaging.
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Iâd like some advice as to what way I should connect my P groups.
Iâll be using .2 thick nickel. I have a preference for option A as this allows me to have all my wiring and connections at the back of my battery box.
Option A
Option B
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I actually really like how this came out. Itâs super clean lol
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Damn boi that shizz clean af 
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OMFG, This is next level. Thanks heaps for posting this.
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They wonât say electronics grade.
Look at the warnings on the back: If it says âwarning, emits acetic acid during cure blah blahâ, itâs acid curing and should not be used.
If it says âwarning, emits methanol and ammonia blah blahâ, then itâs neutral cure and is good.
GE advanced silicone II+ or II* is my go-to, since I can get it in the local hardware store.
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Is it incorrect to assume that once cured there is no more offgassing?
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Yes. Once the silicone has cured fully, it stops outgassing.
Depending on the thickness of the layer, that can take quite a while though.
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One thing Iâve noticed is that sometimes it takes a LONG time to completely finish curing, depending on how thick it is, if itâs many centimeters deep it could take 3 or 5 DAYS to completely finish and if you seal the enclosure before that it will stop curing when the contained oxygen runs out. Unless your shizz isnât water-tight, then it will continue to cure inside.
Using butyl tape has me waiting a few days to seal up the enclosure because of this annoying phenomenon. End result is worth it though.
Iâve legit opened an enclosure thatâs been sealed for months and it had soft uncured silicone insideâŚbut only on the inside. The skin of the silicone (3mm-ish) was well-cured as well as any parts that were thin (which was most parts).
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So considering in this circumstance where there really is no sensitive components (apart from BMS), as long as it was fully cured before it gets locked up in the enclosure, then its probably not a big deal to use the acetic stuff right?
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I still really wouldnât. The acetic acid vapor is really corrosive and will fuck with electronics. It will tarnish copper and brass easily, and aluminum, steel and nickel arenât completely immune either.
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Fair call, worth the discussion.
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