Yes, have a multimeter. I will try that test even if it is just for the learning experience
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Charge it at the slowest setting so the voltage does not have to settle back down much.
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Another unrelated question, I have been wondering what to use to join the p-groups together I have seen people use hot glue and more recently other use silicone. What do you guys use and why? Asking because everytime I use the glue gun I make a mess, and joints dont look as good as what I can see in here 
Maybe we could do a poll
- Hot glue
- Silicone
- Other?
0 voters
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I use neutral-cure silicone if the cells will get any more than a bit warm since hot-glue can soften and that can result in any vibration or shock being transferred to the spot weld points. This can fatigue them, causing the resistance of the connection to increase, or possibly cause the weld to fail.
Silicone takes a long time to cure though and is not convenient at all versus the short time it takes for hot glue to set. Especially with a can of freezer spray being around.
Practice and patience are key.
A mess isn’t necessarily a problem though. Certainly not desirable but as long as it doesn’t affect how the pack functions it’s not a huge issue.
I do admit my OCD would not allow me to create a messy pack though. 
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just making sure the charge port has been wired correctly
postive to main positive and neg to c-
thanks
also does it make a differnce if the wire for 1 vesc is around 40cm and the other around 15cm
4wd so its the easiest way to do it
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It looks right – are you going to fuse it?
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thanks just confirming
i was gonna put the fuse on seperately on a new xt60 as that means its easier to replace then sodlering directly there
correct me if im wrong but only the negative needs to be fused?
These in-line fuses work great.
It doesn’t really matter which side. There just needs to be one in there somewhere
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k thanks
Depends on the type of wire and the amount of current
got 4amps atm and max of 10-12amps
its copper wire i think 14awg
I meant the VESC wires, charge is totally fine
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ah yeah
12awg silicone and i hope to split straight from the nickel
max burst of 140amps
Oh fuck no, 140A in 40cm of 12awg is gonna be a hard pass, how are you even gonna pull that though?
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Anyways, you decided to orient your nickel vertically, not horizontally, which definitely limits amount of current you should pull. Everything is going through that 30mm wide piece, where if you would have turned it sideways would be around 52mm wide.
For the future you should try to do something like this:
It uses 2x 30mm x 52mm per side of the p groups
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max in theory doubt i will ever go that high
10awg is the biggest i have and i really dont have space to do 2 wires
prob realistic max is 100amps
if i double up the 12awg will that work fine?
Yeah double 12awg is good
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is it ok if it starts as one and splits into 2? as i dont really have space to do 2 seperate wires
also would 10awg be fine or still to thin?
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I’d rather 10awg for that
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