At least 24h longer than you think. Brian like to say 72hrs… But I think 48 is a sweet spot 8)
Also what is that clear stuff in the front? Make sure it doesn’t bond to the xt90 before you have to pull it out 
2 Likes
Its hot glue, I ‘glued’ a male connector to the table and peeled it off so I had something I could index the female connector against, not the flange on the female end is flush with the surface of the enclosure and perfectly straight…it doesn’t make much difference but it looks prettier and it makes me happy. Since it is cured before it comes off the table it only binds to the connector, which is pretty easy to peel most of off and I can live with a sticky connector
1 Like
Ah ok 
What board is this going on again? Honestly I’m a super big advocate for going xt60 when possible after seeing my realtime amp pulling on my davega 
Would be easier to wire, just a thought 
1 Like
It’s for my eMTB build, she’s been getting some love and upgrades. This is a 12s7p 30Q battery in a Harbor Freight Apache 1800 waterproof case, it has the battery split in a 4p and 3p grouping with their own BMSs, and a XT90 output (bottom connector) and XT60 input (top connector). The enclosure is literally too small to fit a charge port so the charge port, antispark, main fuse, and charge fuse will all be in the ESC enclosure
3 Likes
Gotcha, sounds rough (but ultimately rewarding) 
That’s the price for packing the enclosure with batteries
I’m facing the same issue in my enclosure, I’ve got to shrink my BMS balance leads and tidy everything up or else it doesn’t fit correctly 
Still running the 10s3p 18650 in the eBoosted enclosure?
1 Like
30t so 21700, but ye
Here’s a pic of what it looked like before :
It was way too tight of a fit with that massive wire going into the board. I’m fixing all of that and (trying) to drown it in silicone 
Waterproof here I come…
1 Like
If you flood it with silicone then you can’t check balance or anything, and it will get mighty toasty
1 Like
Honestly this battery was stone cold after both ‘hard’ rides, and the only thing that got warm was the BMS after doing a full charge
Also I want to be a guinea pig for @DerelictRobot s new BMS so maybe I can see voltages that way o3o
2 Likes
I let both packs sit overnight at full charge (8 hours) and the 4p is at 4.19V/cell, the 3p is at 4.18V/cell, they have slightly different versions of the same BMS and the data for the new one says it goes to 4.18V/cell…I assume its safe to plug them into eachother? The big one will slowly drain that last 0.01V/cell into the other from both the charge negative and pack negative and the BMS will burn it off
Are you putting a 4p and a 3p in parallel?
Yeah, they are 2 fully independent packs that I am running in parallel to get more range and power
And do they have the same capacity? If not you cant put them in parallel, that will most likely damage them.
Yeah the pack is all 30Q cells
Not true. If both packs are the same voltage there is no issue.
Edit: assuming each pack is running a discharge bms
8 Likes
oh okay
This is actually not really an accurate representation. If the packs are in parallel, there pretty much isn’t a 3p glass and a 4p glass. Only one 7p glass.
2 Likes
But if they balance to slightly difference pack voltages it’s not any suggestion of a problem right?
No, its not an issue when each pack is running it’s own BMS. They can be different total voltages and you would expect them to be if the packs are of differing age.
If you aren’t running them on discharge BMSs, you should be. This is one of the rare circumstances that I would encourage the use of a discharge bms.
3 Likes