The specific one I purchased already had the link expire in true ebay fashion, but search for “angelizer” or “anglebuddy” I think they’re meant for carpentry use with tile and stuff that needs holes cut in it blindly.
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Great find, it’s not metal, right?
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Aluminum, I think they come in plastic too, but I’m not sure that would be rigid enough. I’ve been putting blue tape over the edges to safeguard against shorting (also makes it easier to remove excess glue) but I did try to short it with on a cell and couldn’t see any sparking rubbing it around so the paint/coating is fairly good.
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Asking for tips: I am building a 10s4p with in-line series copper braid connections. I am designing it for 80A.
Is this the best way to make the series connections?
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Add solder to nickel between each 2 cells
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solder copper braid on top, then pressing down with some pliers until solder is cool.
I noticed the braid is fast at sucking up solder which makes it stiff, so I am trying to apply heat shorter now.
Oh my god.
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mind Sharing the cause for the emotion?
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That’s a lot of heat to make those massive solder blobs. Kind of defeats the purpose of welding the cells. If you must solder to the nickel strip connected to the cells, do it fast, what you did, might as well have just soldered directly to the cells.
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I cannot tell for sure but visually, looks like 0.15x10mm nickel, which is a little underrated for 40T with single layer.
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On the braid, you let the solder wick too far. Use a metal clamp to block the wicking. needle nose pliers, alligator clamps, whatever.
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I would put an additional layer of insulation under the copper braid where it overlaps the cells, just in case
Conclusion: If you’re going to wire braid that direction, you should pre-solder onto a blank nickel strip, then weld the nickel + braid onto the battery. That gives you 2 layers of nickel + no unnecessary heat from the soldering process.
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Thank you for your thoughts!
I agree with you but think it might not be as bad:
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as it is on the nickel not directly over the cell, it does not have to heat the cell itself to that temperature. Of course some heat will get wicked away into the cell, but based on my physics understanding, there should still be significantly less heat ending up in the cells than soldering directly onto them.
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That’s right about the nickel, however these are 25R cells. The nickel will get exposed to max 20A and that only over the distance of few millimeters.
(Each cell is right next to one copper braid.) -
That’s right. Totally did that mistake on the first two. Now I use the pliers and it works fine.
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good measure. I’ll add that.
Also agree with your conclusion- I will do that next time 
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Yes absolutely correct, the heat gets dissipated. But those solder blobs are so big that it’s almost equivalent of doing a thin solder coat on each cell. Would be way better to just tin a coat of solder onto the nickel, saturate the braid by itself, then push the braid onto the nickel.
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Oh, the cells looked fatter to me.
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Yeah, I tried that, but then it soaks up too much solder and ends up breaking in the middle…
Edit: I tried again as quick as possible and that actually kinda works
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simple question:
Which one is better?
Kweld or Malectrics?
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I haven’t tried a kWeld, but I can say the malectrics works like a charm.
Technology wise, the kWeld might be better, but I don’t think a non-professional battery builder will notice the difference.
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Kweld
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Theres a short video I put up a few days ago on how to do it without it wicking lol - on this thread
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Go with kweld if you have the budget for it and they ship to your location and you plan to build more than just one pack a year.
I personally have a malectrics. Works well and does the job too.
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The price of the Kweld is comparable to a good battery pack made with it, so If you have the money planned to make big batteries to makes sense to make that investment into the welder. Also I haven’t seen a lot of It but a used Kweld market would be fantastic i.e. you can easily sell the welder probably locally shit maybe even make a profit if you sell it to some person who will pay a premium/near retail for a complete spot welding setup see: yourself.
hell you live in germany?
Kweld
I paid 50 euro shipping for mine hahaha
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Kweld and malectrics are almost the same price for me here in Germany (both welders are from Germany)
That’s why I’m asking haha 
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lol did not know the malectics was so expensive and from germany.
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Okay, I was wrong… Shame on me xD
Malectrics: 130€
Kweld: 167€
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30€ are 30€ but kweld if you do not mind about it.
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