What rating is it for? (please be for 8a please be for 8a…)
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Sorry man
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rip 5chr
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I bought my fuses on ebay. They were so cheap
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What’s the scale factor for fuses? I guess 2x is a good number
Thoughts on this one (15A version) for a 12s 8 a charger
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150% of rating. Slow-blow.
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Why slow-blow? Don’t the electronics on the BMS fry pretty quickly? Do the blade fuses count as slow blow or only the glass ceramic ones?
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The fuse is there to protect your house from burning down, not the electronics. A slow-blow will be fine as you dont want to replace the fuse if theres a quick current spike when you plug the charger in.
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Can I get 2 fuses please? 7.5 sounds good since I charge at 6.
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just pm me
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I understood that. Just wanted to point out for other people why not on the place where I marked or if you choose the positive terminal instead that you need to use some extra fishpaper there.
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The packs themselves I usually seal the ends of the shrink with silicone.
For some prebuilt batteries, I use conformal coating
It all depends on the situation. You also have to consider the possibility of the shrink wrap rubbing a hole in itself under vibration, and water entering the hole.
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How do you seal the end of a battery that is too long to shrink wrap? (Unless someone has 520mm shrink wrap). Just flood it with silicone?
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You can brush neutral-cure silicone onto it.
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I built a modular 10s7p pack (30Q) a while back that I can disassemble in 5 minutes and pack away in lipo bags for transport/air travel. Don’t have photos of the whole process, but took a few pictures. Each P grp has a balance lead coming out of the 3D printed casing.
Sizing things up:
All siliconed up, shoved in ABS 3D printed sleeves and about to get welded up.
3 out of 10 modules done
The lesson I learnt was: It’s annoying and challenging to keep 10 packs of batteries neatly organized in your deck. It’s a mess in my enclosure. The concept is nice, but the reality is that this didn’t work out as well as I planned. I ended up taping everything together to keep it in place during assembly and to not end up ragequitting. Sure, I can still undo the tape and disassemble my pack but it’s not as ideal of a solution as I was hoping for.
To make it function more like I was planning it to, I’m going to remove the ends of the 3D printed shells, dangly positive and negative wires and figure out a better way to connect the parallel groups to eachother. I want something that makes a satisfying click as I snap the batteries together. 
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If you’re taking the trouble to do all this (thanks), it’s very helpful to see what NOT to do (photos too). Maybe more useful than the good photos.
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I’ve got a KWeld rig I’m building, looks beefy as hell. I’ll post when I have it operational and do some test welds.
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Thank you! I hadn’t considered this! I’ll do my best to incorporate the bad ones too
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