I’ve got one of these:
It charges my 2x6s lipos at the same time so I thought I’d be able to do the same with my new Li-ion pack.
Doh! Thanks for pointing that out.
I’m not making 2 sub packs. I’m making one 12s4p. Should I be thinking about making them into sub-packs?
that would only make sense if you have only a 6s charger.
as you said your balance charger can do 12s all is good. stay with on 12s pack.
There’s an important distinction! 2x6s is not really the same as 12s.
@Songsta please double check with trampa and also independently verify that this charger can charge two 6s packs that are connected in series. All chargers I’ve seen that say “2x6s” need to have the series connection disconnected before hooking up.
If I´m not wrong, it´s this one
If I get it right it´s one power output and you can balance charge up to 12s like 12s not 2x6s
Make it in to a single 12s pack but just solder on the balance leads as two packs it
Oh boy, I can’t believe I missed this thread until now.
I’m working on some pretty frickin neat shit at my job that’ll blow your socks off, my guys. I’ll update once I get permission from Mr boss man.
I’d really really like to see some of this stuff trickle it’s way into esk8. But we’ll see. If anything, I’d like to make some kind of starter kit deal, but selling stuff is a logistical nightmare.
Yes, it’s this one. There is one power output that gets connected to a Y-splitter that feeds 2x6s Lipos. There are 2 balance cables though, which connect to each of the 6s batteries.
The cable kit is this one:
that would work than how you planned.
I wired all my packs up like this. 12s pack or 2x6s packs. always with 6s blance plugs, so that i can charge my lipos and liion with the same charger and 12s bms.
hope that did not confuse more 
So I am having problems with this cell group. The nickel wont sit flush on the cell because of old nickel “residue”. This is because I first welded nickel onto it and then had to rip it off, which left some pieces of nickel on the cell.
Would it be possible to rub off the nickel with sandpaper? Or would this damage the cell in any way?
Here is a picture. It kind of looks lite there is a hole in the cell, but it is just from a spark for when the nickel was not flush with the cell when welding.
I had to do that on 60 cells when I rebuilt my 12s5p to 12s8p.
Get a dremel with a grinding stone and it goes very fast.
Thank you, I will try that. Is there anything I have to think of in particular? Like not grind on the metal of the cell to not puncture it?
It is not easy to grind through the metal.
Just don’t put too much pressure.
Do the first one and you will find out how easy it is.
What size of heat shrink do I buy for a 12s6p pack in upright position?
It’s very simple to calculate. You take the circumference divided by 2 or just add width and height, then add 10-20% headroom est voila! That’s the proper size of heat shrink (flat dimension).
Here an example, my 12s6p brick is 200mm x 120mm x 70mm.
So the proper heat shrink would be 120mm + 70mm = 190mm. I could use 200mm (tight) or better 220mm. For the other side it’s 200mm +70mm = 270mm. A 300mm heat shrink would be fine.
So from what I get out of your explanation, this should technically work:
Graven PVC Heat Shrink Tubing 220mm Diameter 140mm Color Selectable - (Color: Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07KWJJ883/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qmimDbSFZG3AZ
If your battery looks like mine then yes 
It isn’t built as of yet. But it should be squared so not exactly but close enough
If you have time order from aliexpress different sizes much cheaper.
Here for example 3 meters 220mm heat shrink with free shipping.
Thx but I try to avoid ali and their 2 month delivery estimates.
You mean “add width and height”, right?
