The battery builders club

I don’t know if I should be posting this here or
In the shitty diy thread.
I am pretty sure it will turn into a roasting but Fuck it I don’t want to burn my house and my only battery.

I use a Chinese bought battery pack, and the bms is used to discharge as well. Long story short The BMS is dead and I want to bypass the replacement BMS. My main concern is about that solder joint I made when I soldered the cable to the battery. How shitty is it from “looks like shit” to “I will burn my house”.

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The solder at the very end of the wire looks like it worked ok, but the rest looks pretty cold. Is your solder leaded or no lead?

I had solder that said it had lead in it but it just doesn’t. It was ridiculously hard to get it hot enough for big joints like this.

You either need more heat or better solder.

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I may have been a puss and did not leave the iron long enough. I have a chinese hakko not the digital one I set it to 400c but i don’t know if it is really the real temp. I will try to apply more heat and add solder. I don’t know if the solder has lead.

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Practice on something else before you do the cell. You need to be able to provide enough heat that the solder wicks all the way through the whole wire

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Should I try to heat my joint to undo the solder and try it with a new wire?

If you add solder to what you already have, it should all wet down and wick into the wire.

To be honest, I think your solder is no good. It looks very much like the shit stuff that I had. If that is the case, it’s gonna take extreme heat to get it wet enough. Which isn’t gonna be great for the cells.

If I were you, I would go and get some good quality 60/40 solder and see if you notice a difference before going any further.

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Ok, I will try to find some here. Thanks.

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This was the shit stuff that I had :point_up::point_up::point_up:

This is the good stuff that I have now :point_down::point_down::point_down:

They say they are the same, but they aren’t. Don’t go for the cheap stuff :call_me_hand:

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Do you think if i find that stuff I can just add to my blob?

I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t, but the old stuff will probably take a lot longer to get wet, you really wanna be as quick as possible.

Best bet would be to take the old one off if the new solder flows better than the old stuff.

If the new solder flows the same as the old then you just need more heat.

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I will also add that beyond different alloys of solder, there are also different fluxes, and they are also not all created equal. Consider picking up a flux pen, or some other source of supplemental flux. Sometimes the amount in the solder wire itself just isn’t enough.

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More flux more gooder. But more cleanup :joy:

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My ts100 didn’t include a 24V power supply. I just tried using my 900W DC booster to power it from my bench power supply. This worked better for power delivery but still bottlenecked because the bench power supply is 60W.

Lmao should I just hook it up to some supercells and call it a day

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I am pretty sure my flux is as shitty as my solder bought both at the same place :sweat_smile:

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Stannol is bulletproof. That stuff is the best shit. The fluxcore has more in it than needed to work with.

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if you want proper power just get a weller w201

Solders 8awg wire like your soldering iron solders 24awg :smiley:

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The main thing I need to do is like bullet connectors and XT90s and stuff.

There is some more heavy duty soldering I need to do with low gauge copper wire more power would be good.

I run a temp control station that reckons it gets to 480C for nearly everything and then run a cheap 80W iron for the heavy duty stuff.

@Fosterqc you don’t need a fancy soldering iron for big stuff. Mine cost $30AUD and smashes anything I can throw at it. Transfers heat so fast that other solders down the wire start popping off before I’m finished the one im working on :sweat_smile:

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Natural selection may take its course :smile:

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Second this.


I have those, 60W and 100W. They go here for 5-8$ and with the big one 8AWG isn’t a problem to solder at all

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