The battery builders club

Are these cells dangerous to use? I just opened up the package from NKON and found these dents on these cells:

On this cell the PVC shrink wrap seems even to be party removed.

Don’t use them and email NKON

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Thanks, I sent an email.

FYI

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I found 3 more that had pretty similar damage. Cant I just insulate it and then the cells will work fine?

Are 30Qs better or HG2?

Although specced to a 15A discharge, 30Q’s have been recognized as 20A capable. I think it is just up to prefference. HG2s are usually more expensive so I think that is what drives the popularity of the 30Q cells. Since they are the same price right now i decided to pick up some rootbeers(HG2) to build a pack with. I am still pretty green to the battery building world, but this is my understanding.

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Can you speak to longevity? How do those cells perform after say 100 cycles or 500 cycles?

Seems like mixed reviews and the difference is likely negligible but 30Qs may hold the edge based off of what I have read. I just like to separate myself from the pack when I can

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I am building my first ever pack, and I heard that parallel connection can simply be one nickel strip, but series need to be at least 5? My amperage of it all would be about 60Amps continuous.

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How does this work? I am a beginner and I thought the only way to make a battery pack was just with nickel strips? How does pcb work and how much amperage can it handle?

@Jaydawg56 where did you get all that pcb and how to you even use the pcb?

when they first came out hg2 tested better than 30q. Subsequently at least one batch unfortunately tested worse. 30q have been cheaper and consistent so everyone defaults to 30q now.

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The reason why is, that on the parallel connection the total current is shared over all cells and on the serial connection all current flow over one wire/point.
Even if your deck doesn’t flex, you want to make your pack flexible, so better use silicon wire for the serial connections than 5 layer of nickel.

Information about 18650 pcbs you can find here. It’s explained how to use and where to get

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or take these off me0911f65314b5580cebe5fe7c36f6567eea21a1f8_2_666x500 ffeab9e09fd9cd77f63236f594daf07a6b0fd992_2_666x500

flexible.
(48) 30Q cells welded on a pcb with copper traces with more copper than 12awg on the series connections, .2mm nickel tabs, safety donuts on all positive ends

newpair for 250$ and used I have one for 200$
pick up only in san francisco

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Got it, that makes a lot kore sense, also what awg for wire would be good for drawing about 70Amps?

doubt youd be at 70 amps for long if ever if its a road deck and youre not a monster. probably could get away with 12 or 10 awg like most use your motor wires likely will have a lot more amps going through than the battery wires so maybe feel there once running

Ok, thanks for the help I will probably do 12awg since that my motor wires size

Sorry for the late reply the nickle is bent atop the pcb and then welded and/or soldered to the copper pad. Useing pcbs help when makeing flexible packs because they provide support for each p pack while having the battery separated which allows for a decent amount of flex.

How often do you make these and offer them up? I’m not in SF but I go relatively frequently for business.

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