Hey lads, recently recieved a Exway Auxpack from one of the local riders to play around with, any idea what connector it is that they are using?
By the looks of it, its using 8mm bullets and 4 inner bullets that probably do nothing but cant seem to find a match.
Closest I have found is the qs8 connector (has the 2 bullets but not the 4 smaller ones) and the AS120 connector (has all bullets but are placed differently)
Spooky but relevant
It is also sold as a jst-pa 2.0mm on amazon but not in the larger size, i use This kit and for the crimps and replace the wires with longer higher quality silicone or teflon wire.
Interestingā¦heās saying that the P45B performs better than the ātablessā Auline cell. I would never have expected that.
I really wish he could have shown the outside bottom of the Auline cell so we could have seen if it had a spiral (welding) mark in the center that would help us know if it was a Ampace JP40 or EVE 40PL.
Thanks for posting that though!
I have done that, itās super cheap power. They have all kinds of short circuit protection etc which has saved me a few times.
Bargain Hardware is great for getting them. It was <Ā£10 for a 750 watt psu.
ended up buying a bunch from aliexpress to test out, out of all of them it was the qs8 that worked! sadly not able to find a config that has the 4 smaller pins in the correct location.
Any reason not to conform coat an exposed bms like this: Amazon.com
to protect from water? Iām bypassing discharge so assume heat isnāt an issue.
Is there something to put on the balance plugs that would make them waterproof yet still be separable if needed like petroleum jelly or maybe a soft glue that could be cut off later?
maybe liquid electrical tape?
Heat shrink with the ends hot glued?
Youāll need something to seal at the bottom/end of the connectors though, where they join the pcbā¦hot glue, RTV, etc. I donāt recommend anything like a jelly as it could soften in relatively low heat and slide off, contaminating everything.
Yea, even with discharge it wouldnāt create a heat issue. Charge-only can still get VERY hot though, depends on the BMS. 
Conformal coating can work but, as youāre already probably thinking, it has to be 100%. All of the BMS, its connections AND what itās connected to need to be sealed. The BMS can still be zapped if the other end of its connections get wet,
Iāve just got a new spot welder, the Glitter 811H, 42kW (7000A) variant. Itās a beast. Got it on sale for about 400ā¬ including tax and shipping, with delivery time less than a week. Usually goes between 550-600.
Figured I would share. If you are looking to do a kweld supercap setup I think this is a significantly better buy.
50 mm^2 / ~0AWG cable going to the tips. The probes are super heavy.
Makes the kweld look like a toy. During my first weld I got genuinely surprised from the magnetic fields pushing away the probes and the cables from each other. Doesnāt help that first I tried to penetrate triple 0.15 copper + 0.15 pure nickel and weld it onto a cell at 99% 
stacking copper requires welding flux which I did not use, I suspect this is the reason the weld didnāt go all the way through, because Iāve seen others do 0.4 copper + some nickel at 90%.
Next up a single 0.15 copper strip with 0.15 pure nickel on top at 30%. Measured 7.6kA on the screen with the caps charged up to 6.1V
Very strong weld but I need to work on getting more even pressure between the two probes. This is not like the kweld, here I need much more pressure for a good weld.
Iām ordering some 0.3 copper and 0.1 nickel plated steel to do more tests. And for now build 4x 5S1P flight safe modules with BAK 45D tabless cells, will report back when I get further along with tuning in the welder.
Are you not worried about that much welding current and pressure puncturing the cell can on the negative terminal?
Iāve watched a couple videos and tried reading up on it before buying it and some high power ebike battery builders use it with good success on 21700 liions, even though it is originally more so intended for welding to lifepo4 cell tabs. The only way anyone is going to puncture the can is by turning them up too high.
The thicker you go with your connections the more crucial it is to have it tuned in right for your materials with some pull tests, but tuned in itās not going to puncture. The extra pressure isnāt an issue because the time while you have melted material is also significantly reduced.
Also itās going to stay more consistent throughout the pack because it doesnāt really heat up and change resistance like the Kweld does. So itās really is just one tune in and they work.
Itās like when you thought using your iPad like a cell phone to answer a call and holding a 12 inch tablet up to your ear would get some chuckles, but then you accidentally drop it and break your 50$ screen protector glass.
Is fun for a second, and then you feel silly.
Iāll trade you for its weight in 4mm bullet connectors.
I had 4 at one point. I donāt know why.
Impressive , but that kind looks like the type spotwelders. Iāve only had a bad time with them. is this what they were copying or is this their actual professional line?
If u ever open the case, Iād be interested to see what the electronics and insulation looks like.
You mean the sunkko welders? This is a different company (albeit owned by the same parent company) and this is glitterās highest spec welder. Costs 3-4x of what a sunkko does and itās much more powerful. Itās not transformer based like the sunkkos but supercapacitor based like the kweld is meant to be used.
I could only find good feedback about this specific model.
I donāt plan to open the case up for the foreseeable future, but I would also like to see how it looks inside.
Iām looking for some advice on a pack for this thing that I bought and is supposed to show up tomorrow:
Obviously, the battery is absurdly under specced compared to everything else. This will be my first mountainboard, and I mostly plan to use it off-road, but I may also try to go to some races or at least racing practices.
Iām mostly looking for something that will be more power and voltage-appropriate and not completely blow the bank. Also, Iām honestly more worried about keeping weight down than getting a huge amount of range. I know an 18S5P or more P42 or P45 would probably be ideal, but Iām also trying to look for more budget options. Iām also curious if 18650s or lipos make sense if Iām just looking for good power and light weight at as low a price as possible. 18650s seem bad if youāre looking for range per dollar or range per weight, but better if youāre looking for power per dollar or power per weight, but Iām not sure if that is actually true. Just looking at P42s vs P28s it does though.
Also, the cheap ass in me was looking at
and
I know these are far inferior to P28s and P42s, but theyāre cheap as fuck and seem to suffer more from low capacity than low power. Would these be serviceable for my goals, or should I really avoid older cells like these even if theyāre claimed to be good? Iād probably do at least 18s6p with those, and it would be massively cheaper.
There will probably be some great Black Friday deals on lipos soon. Itās an easy (potentially easy ) alternative to building a whole pack when you just want to get out and skate.
I have a few boxes of the battery hookup 30T cells. I was planning on using them for a MTB with a pelican. Nothing special, not trying to do long distance or backflips on my MTB.
Lipos do need extra care over their admittedly shorter lifespan, but making a 12s pack from two 6s packs is easy.
I think the best pack is the one that gets you rolling sooner.
I mean, Iāve built packs before, so it wouldnāt be a big deal to build one for this. It would be the largest Iāve built, but since it will be a brick pack in a case on top, it shouldnāt be difficult. Now that you mention black Friday, maybe I should wait for that and see what happens then, though. Idk if 18650battery store or liionwholesale do sales specifically for black Friday, but maybe theyāll do something.
What kind of current can you actually expect from lipos? I assume the insane 100C ratings are overrated, but I donāt know what I actually need if I go that route. I want something cable of 150 amps or more since that is about the limit of the ESCs. Iām not sure if Iāll be able to handle all of it as my most powerful board right now isnāt super high power, but if Iām going to upgrade it, I donāt want to have to do it again soon.
