The battery builders club

50.62V ~0.62-2.34 uA

Post all your params settings


Try that

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Also, that’s kinda high… does the charger have a pot you can adjust?

Ya it’s a bad drawing and looks like a dead short.

For. 4wd setup you just double the wires from your main discharge terminals. Stated differently, on a 2wd I would typically run 1x 12awg off the main neg and pos terminals and then terminate those wires in an xt90s. For a 4wd setup, I would have 2 x 12awg running off each main terminal to either side of the pack similarly terminated. The length of the wires doesn’t matter unless there is a difference of a meter or more.

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Checking continuity is really simple: the two test leads on the multimeter have a small voltage between them, and when you touch them together (or touch them both to the same conductive thing or series of conductive things), a small current flows, and that makes the meter beep.
It only works if there’s no other voltage/electricity on the thing being tested, otherwise the other voltage will interfere and cause unreliable readings.

The other test would be to plug the charger (turned on) into the socket, and then probe the back of the socket to see which of the pins are positive and negative. For that you would set the multimeter to DC volts mode.

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It’s arguably better to have the battery wires short and the motor wires long, so having both ESCs right next to each other (and the battery), and then the motor wires going off to wherever the motors are.

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yup, im aware of that. Not interested in extending the sensor cables tho

ah, i think i see the specific issue now. My bad, i should have spent more time on that drawing

Probably. It’s a WATE 7A 12s Li-Ion charger. Is this related to my issue?

Are you interested in keeping your ESCs working and not throwing DRV faults? Long power wires lead to increased inductive voltage spikes which aren’t good for those sensitive drive electronics…

Not telling you how to live your life, but some best practices are “best” for a reason… just saying.

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Could be. Even if it’s not, it’s still something that should be fixed.

Definitely could be. The bms could be cutting off the charge before the charger gets to CV state

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Would that be perhaps be set intentionally to extend the life cycle of a pack?

No… that would be detrimental

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Well I’ll turn that pot down then.

I knew this but thought that was only for checking voltage. Im still a bit confused, I got the meter to beep, it beeps when touching the other empty prong as well. It also beeps the same when i switch up the red/black probes…how would i know which one is positive if the probes don’t matter? Either way im still a bit confused and don’t know if my charge port is right or wrong.

And how come continuity doesn’t work for naked connectors and only on connectors that i soldered a wire onto?

Now plug in a 5.5mm jack (a bare one) and probe it again. It’ll be different thanks to that switched contact.