This was my solution gave a lot more space in case the solder wicks down the braid. Also the braid is twisting not bending when it flexes witch is much more general on the braid.
Bottom left looks fine
Top ones look cold soldered a bit needs more heat. Mottled surface to solder has surface tension were it joins the nickel are teltail signs of this. hopefully when you added the braid it reflowed and fixed it. Add a little flux to the nickel and braid helps massively with big heat sucking things like this.
I have to admit, I don’t understand why people keep using kapton tape in here. I’ve used none on my builds. Kapton tape is a high dielectric material that resists high voltage arcing, and high temperature stability (400c). Neither of which should occur in a battery. It’s thin nature makes it not very good at resisting abrasion and puncture, which is much more likely to happen. Alternatively, harness tape was made to resist abrasion, resist reasonably high temperature (150c)… Idk, can someone point out why kapton tape is useful in battery building insulation?
I’m gonna go with a solid no on kapton tape. Nothing on it’s spec sheet makes it useful for our relatively low DC voltage battery packs with high vibration requirements. Other than the fact that it’s transparent and looks cool(ish)?
I can see it as a useful build tool for temporary masking, but it makes no sense used as permanent insulation. Almost anything else is better. Heat shrink, fish paper, cloth tape, cut up paper cups, strips of old tshirts.
I use it to secure the edges of fish paper and to hold things in place until the heat shrink is on knowing it’s not going at add any issues by conducting or burning. Use materials to there strengths it’s a reliable cheep option to use with a abrasive resistance material in battery building.
