Cant get an answer from LLT. i got their 10-17s bms. first time using it and i can’t get the settings to write anything other than 13s… You can see the extra cell group. its a 12s pack.
I followed the harness wiring correctly, stopping after the first 13 wires.
Any idea?
Does anyone know what this extra +/- lead is for? Just bought a new 12s LLT SmartBMS and have never seen this before. According to google translate, the lettering above it says “Switch”.
It can be more challenging as the solder likes to wick into them and they can get very brittle. It’s really not too tough, you might be able to find some braid on ebay
You did not follow the diagrams, you have to solder together a number of the leads to make it 12s. You should be able to get the diagram from the product page in a pdf
It doesn’t have a 12s one, but it’s a reasonable assumption since all the others are like this, to think that 12 should be the last connection on the end (17)
It’s much the same as soldering wire but as @ShutterShock mentioned, the solder wants to wick up the braid. You can mitigate this with a set of forceps holding the braid near the joint. That being said, high-strand-count silicone wire is much safer and more robust. If height is a concern, do 3x 16awg or 4 x 18awg instead of 2 x 14awg.
I think w/braid a flat metal bar or metal ruler held down perpendicularly works much better than forceps as a heatsink. Leaves a very cleanly distributed solder joint too. I know somebody on here has pics they often refer to.
I have these 8s1p modules for a 16s1p board (sounds a bit odd but the M100 is a small HV ESC and is the right combination of range and power for me), but I also gave in to temptation and ordered some loaded hubs on here and even 10s speeds on those is more than I need. Would it be feasible to also wire them in parallel when the P groups are split?
So basically 8s1p units where the only shared power wiring are the paralleled positive and negative, but the balance leads are terminated together. I’ve read about p group nickel not carrying an appreciable current between cells in a group and largely just acting as a current collector, and these are new very tightly balanced P45B cells, but I don’t want to accidentally force a couple of amps through a 22awg wire
That’s how i do it. Definitely the best way i have found for braid.
But in general braid is pretty lame. I don’t like it for joints that will see any flex, it’s not fit for that purpose IMO.