I mean, that’s basically a new pack but I’d still go with your plan. Breaking down the pack to add more cells just isn’t worth the trouble. It’s so much work and wrought w danger.
What needs to happen to the 4p to put it into the other board?
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going from an eboosted evo SS enclosure to an eboosted vanguard 12s3p, so 1 less pack, and a very different configuration. basically has to be redone as I understand it. person who is building my new battery is doing the reconfig as well
Hello, a friend had got a new Hurricaine and basically his maiden voyage was at esk8 con. Several times the power would just cut off. He had some other battery with him. Swapped it out and all was good. He ended up getting a new battery from Meepo and no problems. I offered to take a look at the battery/ esc for him hoping to see something obvious. I opened her up I did not see anything yet. I did not take it apart apart just enough for a basic visual. Battery is reading 44.7V. Still have to hookup a meter and twist it a bit to see if voltage changes. Here are some pics.
Looks like the whole thing may be welded with copper. Balance wires overlap and are thin as shit and main leads are
12ga
No that would actually be one less cell in each parallel group. Also a lot of work. He’s basically going to have to tear the whole pack apart in any case.
Is the person doing the work a member of the forum?
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sorry, yeah, as you can see I’m not super familiar with the terms haha. and no I don’t think they’re on the forum - it’s a local friend of mine… but yeah, it’s gonna be a lot of work
All good bro. I’d suggest you read the intro to batteries thread. It’s not super long and will give you a cursory understanding of the foundational stuff. Good place to start:
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for reference these are some pics I have of the battery… seems like good work, yeah? been running great and it seems like she puts a lot of care in
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Does anyone have any suggestions to test this Hurricane battery? I did not check voltage of the individual P groups yet. I was hoping not to have to take it further apart but it looks like I have to. I was thinking if P groups check out and all welds look good maybe just replace the BMS and bypass it.
Uploading: 20220529_152312.jpg…
The busbars 
Would be curious to see a full teardown 
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You’ll be able to check individual cell voltages by very carefully measuring those exposed pins with your multimeter
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Yall must have steadier hands than me. I know if I tried that it would 100% end with a burnt balance lead if not worse.
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Lol if you slip, there’s every chance that you’ll cook some bms components. Not for the faint hearted, that’s for sure
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Thank you! I will give it a go. I’ll actually wrap thin wire around a pin with some heatshrink and wrap other end of the wire to the meter probe end and still use a lighted magnify glass lol. Yes dont want sparks.
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Could balance leads be mixed up. These are the readings starting frim the right. Double checked they’re correct
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A better picture of the bus bars. I have to take this apart some more. I looks like there is some kingd of thick metal tabs between the spacers
Are the 2 numbers at the bottom ones you missed? everything else looks fine as long as 15.38 is between 11.53 and 19.22 and 30.74 is between 26.90 and 34.59.
Ha I’m blind. It is not metal tabs, it’s folded nickle strip.
Not sure why the black wire seems to terminate not at an end P group
The two numbers at the bottom are the last two pins on the left, all numbers are in order starting from right side of BMS
Then that may be the issue. I suppose you could set up a bms so the pins are in whatever order you want, but AFAIK they are basically always in order.