The battery builders club

Not really, just make sure there is a fuse c:

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If you, like me, don’t want to weld packs and prefer modular packs, there is a much better way: NESE. They are available for 18650 and 21700 cells.

I have them in two of my boards and have put 1200km on one and more than 400km on the other.

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charge cycles? :face_with_monocle:

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edited to reflect that i meant km

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Hey guys, I’m starting to order parts for my battery build, but does anyone know if ru.nkon site is down? Shipping quotes aren’t available and I can’t order any 30q

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Your timing is unfortunate.

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:sob: damn, that was the only site what sold $2.74/30q cell for the US. All the other sites sell them around $4.75/cell for 30q. :sleepy: guess I’m not building packs anymore

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I actually read somewhere it’s not. You are supposed to place the fuse between the main negative on you battery and B- on the bms. The fuse should then be placed as close as possible to B-.

@taz is the man I believe that said that.

The way it’s wired now, will only protect the charger from toasting the BMS but by doing it the other way, you’ll be protecting the battery. I have one each place.

I’m not completely sure if that’s how it actually is, but just what I think I remember. Please don’t hang me up on it but correct me :sweat_smile:

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Yes, I build batteries, on my thread the pricing is explained, if you need more info just send me a message


One more set of welds and then it’s on to the balance tabs and S connections.

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I’m interested in that system I’ve never built a battery before i figure this will help me learn.

Click on those orange links. You’ll know what to do.

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This is for my mountainboard
Samsung 30q 12s8p


And this is for my m365
Lghg2 10s4p
Should give me a range around 25km

Everything is glued togeather with silicone

Currently I’m using the sunkko 737+ And it feels like its just not handling the load
Also I ordered the Arduino spotwelder and a huge dry cell car battery and a charger so I’m set for some more battery building

I have problem with one of bestech D140 12S. Bms was new, still in original wrap. I have connected balance wires and main negative wire from battery. Voltage on every balance wire is right and they are connected in right order (checked 3 times). Every cell is from same 100pcs battery box, every group at 3.44V. Voltage on bms input (B-) is 0.4V higher than output (P-). Bms is warm/hot on part with ‘101’ plates. I am scared to finish battery because bms should not be hot just laying on battery. After one hour of bms just sitting connected and being warm, it drained two groups to 3.40V. Bestech answered to my mail and said that it is normal that bms is warm when balancing (??? balancing what exactly?) I am scared that bms is faulty and will try to kill two groups. That happened before with d596 and I am not sure if I want to risk it again. Everything is disconnected right now. Should I let bms connected to battery for another 10 hours or so and check voltages every hour, maybe it will start balancing after some time? Any ideas?

@thisguyhere
@pjotr47
@b264
@Andy87

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Isnt the balancing wires suppose to be the last thing you connect to the bms? Correct me if im wrong, something ive read somewhere?

this is charge only bms, so It doesn’t “see” if there is charging port installed or not. so yeah, balance wires were installed last.

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If your p groups all at one voltage than the bms shouldn´t balance anything.
I might be wrong at this, but I thought the D140 even don´t balance at such a low voltage.
Anyway, I would check the p-groups voltage with a multimeter.
If the bms in the time you plugged it in till now drained one or more p-groups than definitly something is wrong. shouldn´t be.

@DanielMedstortD that´s right, but looks like @tinp123 did that anyway.

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@Andy87 I have checked voltage on balance connectors before connecting it in bms, every group was on 3.44V. after one hour connected in bms, two groups were lower, on 3.40V. there was no need for bms to balance anything, and only thing it did was draining voltage from two groups.

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that´s what i mean. that shouldn´t be. if it did drain already now two groups for 0.04V it will very likey continue. You could monitor it a bit more to be be sure, but looks like the bms is done.

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I guess I will leave it for 10 hours or so. just to see how will bms behave