Yeah dont mind me. Read it the other way. Thought “why no nickel on small tab of copper”
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I wonder what the conductivity of eggplant is? More experiments for retirement, lol
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Pretty good I’d say, it’s 92% water. How to solder it is another story
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IMO this is a poor decision, having a single point of exit for the flow means all the current is forced across that small cross-sectional area. So it’s cool that it will distribute across all the positive poles on the cells, and that’s definitely what you want, but you’re going to majorly restrict flow at that one point of exit. Most of us use another fold over to solder a length of exposed wire on, in order to keep that large distribution area going into the wire and not create a bottleneck.
You’re not new here, so I’m guessing you just missed it and/or didn’t search, but people have discussed and tried copper welding a few times. I’m not sure these are real results but the idea has at least been floated on occasion. Here with some external links as well. Testing. EV applications
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I’m going to modify my plan to attach the main leads to the tabs based on your comment. I was looking to improve on the original design of the pack without changing too much, and placing the exit point centrally and made of copper I felt I accomplished that, but you’re right that attaching to multiple points with a fat cable will be better.
I may very well have seen the threads you linked, but my comment was directed more at the fact that the same information is not here in the battery builders thread, where I think it should be.
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Yeah at least for the exit leads, all the current flows there so you might as well be extra there. The series ones only need enough for their locations
Cool man, just remember to insulate all possible short points well. Chafe is real.
One more thing. Irregularly shapes P groups kinda freak me out. No logical reason, maybe it’s like insisting the stickers on the batteries all face the same way, but still…
Carry on!
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@Skyart they are all absolutely perfect. Now that I finished checking them and writing down all the voltages, I feel like I just kinda wasted my time 
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Better safe than sorry my dude, when we get batteries from reputable sellers they are always the same voltage, and we toss the ones that are not because there must be something wrong with them
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Yeah I see that. Last individual cell buy I did was the imrbatteries clearance sale and that ended in a fireball
Guys I need to buy a soldering iron Best bang for your buck? Under 100 usd Any suggestions thanks
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Either TS-80, or a Weller 40w kit, I have that old red boy and it hits way harder than it deserves to
I’ve had this one for years and it still puts out more punch than my TS-80 from time to time
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I love my Baku rework station. Gets hot real freaking quick and good retention of said heat. Plus the pen fits any Hakko tips so you can get even better results.
Edit: fuck man, you guys can get it for 60bucks…I paid 100
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Dang that’s not a bad price for all that
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I like the fact it has both in one unit. Also the hot air gun stops heating when you place it back on its stand (possibly thx to a magnet) so I don’t have to worry about things behind it
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Lol you don’t want a melted table??
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It hangs tip up
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Ah okay so you need to protect your poster of Damon on the ceiling. Much more understandable.
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