Haha 
thats funny that it kind of works. Only kind of though.
Edit: Specifically if you search " (upload:// " and select “search this topic” then it will display every picture upload in the thread. Have to click through one by one though which is kind of a pain.
If you click the “summarize this topic” button under the initial post it gives you the top rated stuff…most of it has a lot of pictures
Yep this is also a great option. Though I have found that a lot of awesome pictures in this thread dont show up in there. 100 posts is just too few for a nearly 10000 port topic hehe
That’s why it would be really cool to have a systematic way to view only the replies that contain pictures 
Wtf I’ve been on these forums 3 years and never noticed that lmao
You do get image galleries within the post when you dbl click the images. I just wish it would include the rest of the images in the thread. For example, maybe it should start with the image you clicked on and allow you to go back and forth to other images in the thread.
Also, if I’ve already got some series connections made, could I charge each individual p-pack by clipping alligator clips to just each +/- terminal of the pack without affecting the rest? (this is probably a really obv question and i feel stupid for asking but I don’t wanna do anything stoopid)
Sure can! Just make sure you arent shorting anything you dont mean to, and are using a proper 4.2v liion charger!
If I were making that thread, I would make it look as close to a clone of the pictures only thread as possible, including making the title something like
"
Battery Pictures and Nothing Else! "
Cus we already have a thread for discussing best practice battery building tips and getting your work reviewed, and its called The Battery Builder’s Club 
Is it normal for cells to drop from a full charge back down to 4.16V after around 3 hours? Or maybe my meter is a little off?
Yeah as they even out the internal chemistry the voltage drops and the charger shuts down after it reaches full charge. If you pull the cell out and put it back in then it will restart
Im in norwalk, CT just outside the city… i have cheap 10s bms if u need… charge only as well… im not in the city anytime soon but local mail will be quick im sure…or u can day trip up…only 45mi away or metro north
Do balance wire tabs always go on the negative?
Also – does nobody make foldover packs anymore because of the vibrations? Are they bad even on stiff decks?
Generally yes, except the last one which you need on the positive to connect the highest voltage.
I did it that way at least, and many others. I don’t think placing them on the positive side would make much difference as the neg is connected to positive already; at the same voltage.
Maybe someone else can confirm?
The reason we do this is because the body of the cell is also negative. Only the top center is positive, but even the ring at the top edge is negative. So you may be creating a potential spot for shorts to accur. By putting the balance wire on the negative side if it were to rub it would not create a short.
Its not something absolutly necessary and you’ll still have to have one balance wire on the pack positive terminal. But any potnetial problem I can remove from the equation I’m going to jump at the opportunity to do so.
There are only two scenarios I use folds between two P groups welded together. The folds are facing the width of the deck, so not the way the deck flexs, this is how I do evolve packs. Or the pack is 2P, maybe 3P and will be taped and shrunk to be a completely rigid brick. In which case I feel safe knowing the fold will never be under any stress.
I was mainly considering it because I have a perfectly functional spot welder and a terrible soldering iron lol
Alex is right, if you repeatedly flex the folds the nickel will fatigue and form stress fractures to the point the current bottle necks and gets dangerously hot or just fully breaks which will repeatedly spark too and fry your esc
If the deck is really stiff or the folds run down the axis of the board it should be fine
Also just buy a good iron
A very serviceable soldering iron will set you back about $30-45 if you go deal-hunting from the usual scumbags. Totally worth it for anyone in the DIY space, along with a multimeter (You got one of the too, right?)
A “nice” iron is probably more like $60-100, but you don’t need one like that unless you’re gonna spend a lot of time soldering.
And you’ll need both before your build is done, I can pretty much guarantee it.
