The BadBoi - An all-terrain, weatherproof, hill-muncher

link for us n00bs?

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Haha, the specific type I’m after is one I’ve actually had trouble finding. Sure I can probably dig it up on Digikey tonight, but it’s the one that can be seen on @haggyboard.timo’s site under sensor cables IIRC

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Yeah, I’m not familiar with the connector you speak of.

Oh, it actually is just a basic aviation/RCA style. I remembered it being much more compact. Maybe not a great idea at that size. Locking Molex is still a good option.

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these? https://www.molex.com/molex/products/family/picolock or these? https://www.amazon.com/Molex-Connector-Waterproof-Position-Assurance/dp/B07HQ33ST5/

The battery and bits have a arrived. So has the enclosure, so I got them fitted up to see how it looks.

I’ve attached the box to the board with bolts through rubber “tap washers”, which sit inside the moulded feet on the box, to allow for board flex and some vibration damping:

The enclosure on the board:

I don’t want to attach the anti-spark until I’ve got the vescs, to decide final layout.
The vescs will be mounted inside the lid of the enclosure.

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Oh, and I Sharpied the edges of the board in black. Which has come out a burnt metallic red colour after drying. I’m ok with that.

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Looks awesome, hope you can shred with this thing soon :love_you_gesture:

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Turns out I’ve got a pretty vacant summer now!

Fortunately, I’m due a decent compensation payout from a serious injury, and I’ve got myself a food delivery job, so this project shouldn’t be falling dead in the water…

Really hoping to get in on the 2nd test batch of the Neobox V6 escs…

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Glad to hear it man, hadn’t heard from you in a bit. Well I’m not glad about the serious injury part… Just the rest.

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Be careful with those bike bar thing. I hade a similar like urs but over time and vibrations made it skrape the road and I flew off. Hopefully I made a good landing and I removed it ASAP…

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Ah, thanks for the warning. I might give it a dose of hot glue :+1:

Yeah bro, tough times for everyone at the moment. Those of us in event work have been shafted a bit.
So glad I was able to find some work delivering hot meals to quarantined homeless people in London. Helps them and helps me :blush:

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Just ordered the motors from Maytech :slight_smile:

You get a slight discount from their website price if you email them directly.
For anyone in the UK (probably eu too), if you pay in HKD instead of USD, it works out a bit cheaper too :wink:

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Just stumbled on this thread, great looking board, well done!

But what is even more impressing for me is the combination of you with the board. I’ve never seen such a perfect colour match of board and rider :joy:. Shoes, shoelaces, trousers… now I wonder what the rest looks like. I’m quite sure you have a black/grey helmet with some red stripes? :sunglasses:

662246242

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Bloody hell, we’ve got Mystic Meg amongst us!

I’ve got a grey helmet and grey knee and elbow pads :ok_hand:
(Although my shoes n laces are actually orange :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:)

My bike:


My van:

What can I say… I like it!

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@Creavenger @rich
What size braided sleeve do I need for 12awg motor phases wires, in bundles of 3 plus sensor cables?
I’ve had a little Google, and reckon 12mm?

I’m eyeing this up, but not sure if black n red sleeve will be too much once I’ve had my etoxx kit, Inc bullbars, anodised in red


(I’ll find somewhere more local)

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I use 10mm braided sleeve from hobbyking and run 3 14awg phasewires plus one sensorcable incl. the connector through 1 sleeve.

These braided sleeves can open up quite wide tbh. But to be safe, just get 12 mm if available. And maybe get red and black so you can compare the colour later when most is put together. If you use black however, the wires will be less noticeable in pictures etc. giving a cleaner look imo.

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I also use the 10mm from HK which is fine, 12mm should work as well.

Just a few hints, don’t cut it with scissors, use a wire cutter.

wirecutter

Then you have to melt the end pieces with fire (not just a little bit) otherwise it will come loose. But don’t melt it when the sleeve sticks together, in this case open the hole e.g. with a screwdriver or ball pen ( I do it everytime like this even when it doesn’t stick together).

Put some masking tape on the hall sensor connector and shape a rounded tip then it’s much easier.to feed through and the sharp edges of the connector can’t harm the braided sleeve. Also it can help i you don’t feed through everything at once, e.g a small distance between sensor and phase wire connectors can help a lot.

Use shrink tube afterwards, normal shrink tube will move so you can use some with inner glue or what I often do is to use some tape on the crossing section before heat shrinking. The shrink tube will move, too but you can slide it back. But anyway it is annoying, best is to use heat shrink with inner glue.

I guess that’s all I know about braided sleeves…
Edit: Well watch a video on YT how to feed the cables through, as english is not my mother tongue it is impossible to describe it :man_shrugging:

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Thanks for the great tips mate :+1:
I’ll check out YouTube vids too.

Cheers all!

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