These new ones seem promising to me. Depends if you plan to reverse mount your motors or not. If there’s no chance of pebbles / debris hitting them, I would use them.
Idk how your customs system works, but back in the day in LV they would believe whatever the seller wrote on the package, which is how I got away paying close to nothing.
I would get them from Haggy too, but after customs they cost 330$, more expensive than Maytechs. BTW, Maytechs for 307$ or eskate.eu maytech rebrands for 274$?
This sounds promising, especially considering the 60$ pricepoint, a third (!) of Maytechs. Which mounting method would you recommend to avoid damaging the motors?
Reverse, so that the motors are higher from the ground, and have 0 chance of hitting curbs. Problem is you can’t jump down curbs then (not that you’d want to on a switchblade deck), and the tail of the deck might get in the way of motors. I have a non-standard solution for this problem in mind, but I can’t recommend it until I test it myself.
If you are going to spend all that time and energy building a battery I’d protect it with something other than the BMS that is with the unity. I’m one of the people who helped design and debug that BMS and the IC it uses is just problematic. We were never happy with it’s performance. Can ask a few of the people around here to elaborate on all the BMS problems we had with the raptor 2 (same etray as what you plan to purchase). Saving $30 on a BMS is not worth killing your expensive battery.
Also be aware the cool cheap price you are getting on that unity is taken out of the pockets of a lot of awesome community members here who never received their stuff and/or warranty replacements when their things broke. I think you’ve been made aware of this and are moving forward purchasing from there anyway but I’d rather see money going pretty much anywhere else so I’ll just repeat this again.
Yeah my bad! I couldn’t edit it. Yeah honestly there are options if you look around. I think even flipsky is a lower level of risk than that operation.
Thank you for the advice on the BMS, I’ll certainly take it. What extra safety measures would you recommend? i.e. what bms?
Sadly its too late, I’ve ordered it before making this thread, before I was aware of the implications. In a thread it was concluded that it is indeed the factory who supplied enertion with the parts and didn’t get paid, not Jason, so I felt that it is not a moral violation. (also the chinese warehouse manager(?) uploaded a video of the unitys.)
I don’t think you fully read the thread then or thought critically about the situation, there’s pretty much only one place those are coming from and it’s Jason. The PCB factory we used doesn’t list it’s customers designs on alie-express. Would be a really fast way to lose the trust of all the businesses using your services.
BMS are a bit tricky to source, I think some of the other guys on this forum can offer some better advice here than me. Been awhile since I shopped for one, I bought one from @thisguyhere and it has been working well in one of my builds awhile back but I’m not sure what the current best options are. There’s some workable ones on alie-express that are cheap. Just make sure to bypass them.
Thank you! I’ll look into this a bit more, and probably return with some more questions. I apologise for this situation, I wasn’t fully aware of the extent of this scandal.
Thanks! I’ve just remembered another question I had concerning the etray, and you seem to be the right person to know it. With the etray and another bms, do I still need an antispark switch? (or anything else for this matter)
The unity has a built-in switch so you are good there. You’ll need to remove the white jumper connecter in the etray and directly plug the switch into the unity. In terms of other circuitry all you should need is a reciever for the remote.
Hey! Thanks! The enclosure is 4cm thick out of which 2cm is insulation. The roads are quite dodgy here so I wanted overkill insulation. So far the enclosure hasn’t hit ground unlike the motors.