Hi Guys,
I’m completely new here. I’ve been riding a slightly modified wowgo2s (deckswap, bushings, waterproofing, etc) for a year now almost every day, and a regular longboard for years before. I feel that I want more power for hillclimbs, as well as range, and as I am a diy enthusiast (mostly cars) I thought I would delve into the diy esk8 world, and build my own board. After a few days of 0-24 research I’ve managed to compile a list of parts, which seem suitable, and compatible with each other.
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ESC: Focbox unity + etray (bms, chargeport, fuse and switch)
-Considered neobox, trampa, flipsky, but this seemed to be the best all-around choice from the raptor clearance shop. (I’ve dug into it a bit, found quite a few people who have received original parts, including a working unity with the pcb and the packaging looking exactly the same as the original) -
Remote: Flipsky vx1
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Charger: 4A 12s
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Motors: Flipsy 6374 3500w 170kv, from the groupbuy.
Eskating PRO 6374
-I originally wanted to go for Maytechs or TB motors, but I want to avoid taxes and duties (it is at least +30% around here if it gets caught). I’ve also though about Flipsky motors, but they seem to be unreliable. Despite all the alternatives being nominally cheaper, after customs, the Eskating pro is the most cost effective option. Also, a few people have noted that it is a rebranded Maytech, so quality shouldn’t be an issue. Also, its nominally rated 190kv, but a review mentioned that it is closer to 170kv. (yaay more torque) -
Battery: DIY 12s5p 30q with daly bms
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Trucks and mounts: Kahua forged and milled
-I’m am not entirely certain about these, especially considering that they ship from China . [taxes
] I’ve considered the e-caliber trucks, but they are too narrow. Any other good alternative? I don’t want to opt for double kingpin, as most of you deemed it too unstable, and I’ve been perfectly pleased with the manoeuvrability of single kingpin trucks. -
Drivetrain: Kahua compatible from Haggy
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Deck: Switchblade 40"
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Enclosure: Custom
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Wheels: Boa Constrictor 100mm
As a first time builder I am more than happy to take any recommendations, tips and tricks, alternatives for parts, or whether a given part is too high or too low spec compared to the rest, or just generally there is a better option out there. I have a few concrete questions:
1: I’ve already purchased the etray(raptor) with switch, bms, fuse included, do I still need an antispark?
2: Is there any other viable alternative for the Kahua trucks and mounts, for fitting 6374 motors, especially from the EU? (to avoid duties) Caliber-e trucks seem to be too narrow for 6374s.
3: Also, any other viable alternative for the enclosure? (also concerned about duties)
If this renowned community agrees with these principles of my build, I’ll start ordering parts, and posting pictures and info about the build process.
Thank you very much!
EDIT1: Added changes based on the feedback I received in this thread.
-----------------------------------------BUILD-----------------------------------------
1: BATTERY DIY (12s5p)
I’ve managed to borrow a spot welder, so I did not have to buy myself one. Measured all the cells, and put together a small wooden frame to help with the alignment and glueing of the cells. I’ve first welded together the parallel groups, then put them in series, then reinforced the series connections again. I’ve used 10mmx0.15 nickel strips, and 8mmx2.0 for reinforcing series connections, because I’ve run out of the prior. Had some minor issues with welds not holding properly, but managed to sort them out, but I’ll pull apart the battery after 50ish km, to see if the welds were damaged by vibration. Once I’ve somehow managed to drop a piece of nickel and shorted out two parallel groups, but managed to remove it in a split second before anything got damaged (hopefully). I’ve used 18awg wire for the main outputs and the connection between the two sides, and 12awg for bms wiring. Used insulation rings, wrapped everything conductive in kapton tape and covered the battery with insulation tape, and a heatshrink. Took me around 2 and a half days to complete.
As a silver lining, I’d like to very much agree with all the alarmists, who wouldn’t recommend making a battery for yourself. It is indeed challenging and quite dangerous. I wanted to learn from this process, not just get to the end result, so I would certainly do it again. However, I’d join the club, and would advise against building batteries, if someone just wants their skateboard to be done and operational. I’d like to thank Mike Beard and Artsiom Naidzich for the awesome tutorials, and @BillGordon for the indispensable advice, and everyone in this thread for the immense help!
Battery update:
The welds turned out to be unreliable, so I embarked on an adventure and drove to @tinp123, who was not just very professional but wholesome! Fixed the battery, had a nice lunch, thank you Tin! I would wholeheartedly recommend his services.
2: DRIVETRAIN
Trucks, mounts, AT wheels and pulleys arrived from Haggy, I’d like to thank @haggyboard.timo for the great products, good price, fast and convenient delivery. When motors, wheels etc arrive from @Anubis I’ll update this thread.
FINISHED BOARD
After some minor calamities the board is finished. Test rides and first adjustments done. I’ll update the thread with more pics of the process and different stages in a bit. For now have these pictures of the board on the first 30km test ride where nothing had to be adjusted. It is an absolute beast, at 60 kmph, almost the top speed limited by the gear ratios, it still pulls very hard, it did definitely meet my expectations. Thank you all for the help in making this a reality!
just get TB 110s