The Ambassador | Landyachtz Switchblade 40" | Kahua trucks and mounts| Flipsky 6374 | 30q 12s5p| Unity

Hi Guys,

I’m completely new here. I’ve been riding a slightly modified wowgo2s (deckswap, bushings, waterproofing, etc) for a year now almost every day, and a regular longboard for years before. I feel that I want more power for hillclimbs, as well as range, and as I am a diy enthusiast (mostly cars) I thought I would delve into the diy esk8 world, and build my own board. After a few days of 0-24 research I’ve managed to compile a list of parts, which seem suitable, and compatible with each other.

  • ESC: Focbox unity + etray (bms, chargeport, fuse and switch)
    -Considered neobox, trampa, flipsky, but this seemed to be the best all-around choice from the raptor clearance shop. (I’ve dug into it a bit, found quite a few people who have received original parts, including a working unity with the pcb and the packaging looking exactly the same as the original)

  • Remote: Flipsky vx1

  • Charger: 4A 12s

  • Motors: Flipsy 6374 3500w 170kv, from the groupbuy.
    Eskating PRO 6374
    -I originally wanted to go for Maytechs or TB motors, but I want to avoid taxes and duties (it is at least +30% around here if it gets caught). I’ve also though about Flipsky motors, but they seem to be unreliable. Despite all the alternatives being nominally cheaper, after customs, the Eskating pro is the most cost effective option. Also, a few people have noted that it is a rebranded Maytech, so quality shouldn’t be an issue. Also, its nominally rated 190kv, but a review mentioned that it is closer to 170kv. (yaay more torque)

  • Battery: DIY 12s5p 30q with daly bms

  • Trucks and mounts: Kahua forged and milled
    -I’m am not entirely certain about these, especially considering that they ship from China . [taxes :frowning: ] I’ve considered the e-caliber trucks, but they are too narrow. Any other good alternative? I don’t want to opt for double kingpin, as most of you deemed it too unstable, and I’ve been perfectly pleased with the manoeuvrability of single kingpin trucks.

  • Drivetrain: Kahua compatible from Haggy

  • Deck: Switchblade 40"

  • Enclosure: Custom

  • Wheels: Boa Constrictor 100mm

As a first time builder I am more than happy to take any recommendations, tips and tricks, alternatives for parts, or whether a given part is too high or too low spec compared to the rest, or just generally there is a better option out there. I have a few concrete questions:

1: I’ve already purchased the etray(raptor) with switch, bms, fuse included, do I still need an antispark?

2: Is there any other viable alternative for the Kahua trucks and mounts, for fitting 6374 motors, especially from the EU? (to avoid duties) Caliber-e trucks seem to be too narrow for 6374s.

3: Also, any other viable alternative for the enclosure? (also concerned about duties)

If this renowned community agrees with these principles of my build, I’ll start ordering parts, and posting pictures and info about the build process.

Thank you very much!

EDIT1: Added changes based on the feedback I received in this thread.


1: BATTERY DIY (12s5p)

I’ve managed to borrow a spot welder, so I did not have to buy myself one. Measured all the cells, and put together a small wooden frame to help with the alignment and glueing of the cells. I’ve first welded together the parallel groups, then put them in series, then reinforced the series connections again. I’ve used 10mmx0.15 nickel strips, and 8mmx2.0 for reinforcing series connections, because I’ve run out of the prior. Had some minor issues with welds not holding properly, but managed to sort them out, but I’ll pull apart the battery after 50ish km, to see if the welds were damaged by vibration. Once I’ve somehow managed to drop a piece of nickel and shorted out two parallel groups, but managed to remove it in a split second before anything got damaged (hopefully). I’ve used 18awg wire for the main outputs and the connection between the two sides, and 12awg for bms wiring. Used insulation rings, wrapped everything conductive in kapton tape and covered the battery with insulation tape, and a heatshrink. Took me around 2 and a half days to complete.

As a silver lining, I’d like to very much agree with all the alarmists, who wouldn’t recommend making a battery for yourself. It is indeed challenging and quite dangerous. I wanted to learn from this process, not just get to the end result, so I would certainly do it again. However, I’d join the club, and would advise against building batteries, if someone just wants their skateboard to be done and operational. I’d like to thank Mike Beard and Artsiom Naidzich for the awesome tutorials, and @BillGordon for the indispensable advice, and everyone in this thread for the immense help!

Battery update:
The welds turned out to be unreliable, so I embarked on an adventure and drove to @tinp123, who was not just very professional but wholesome! Fixed the battery, had a nice lunch, thank you Tin! I would wholeheartedly recommend his services.


Trucks, mounts, AT wheels and pulleys arrived from Haggy, I’d like to thank @haggyboard.timo for the great products, good price, fast and convenient delivery. When motors, wheels etc arrive from @Anubis I’ll update this thread.


After some minor calamities the board is finished. Test rides and first adjustments done. I’ll update the thread with more pics of the process and different stages in a bit. For now have these pictures of the board on the first 30km test ride where nothing had to be adjusted. It is an absolute beast, at 60 kmph, almost the top speed limited by the gear ratios, it still pulls very hard, it did definitely meet my expectations. Thank you all for the help in making this a reality!


I almost discourage battery building for newer people because even with a lot of help and research, it’s still one of the more dangerous things to do in this hobby. I’m a nuclear electrical engineer and I’ve been diy for a couple years now and just getting into building packs and it’s meticulous work

It’s definitely doable. But to save you a lot of work, I recommend hitting up a builder


They ship from Taiwan, and they’re excellent. This seller is one of the very best in esk8, too.

I’ve never seen what I consider even a decent drive setup from Banggood. Can you provide a link?

They’re not bad (I actually like them a bit better than the 107s), but chunk a bit too easily for me. I would go with TB100s if you want to stick with this diameter or if you can go larger, TB110s.


Thank you for the advice! I’ve considered commissioning a builder, but only actually having the board completed is only half of my initiative. I also want to gain expertise, so I am willing to invest time in building the battery myself.

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Thank you for the advice! Here is the link for the drive setup:
I’ll look into the wheels! Concerning my questions, do you have any advice? Did I miss anything, which I would need for the build? Connectors, wires, adapters etc. (except the battery stuff of course)

If you are getting the Kahuas, I’d say get the pulleys that haggy sells on the site as well. Go with the Torqueboards 100mm or 110mm wheels, and pick up kegel pulleys from the haggy site.


I’m really glad you said this, because Kahuas won’t work with just any pulley set. It’s made to work with their pulleys only or a similar large integrated bearing setup.

When I buy my second set of Kahuas, I’ll go Kegel again because there are no true ABEC core wheels I would buy these days.


I’d have your battery built by a trusted builder so you don’t light your legs on fire.

Also no to Abecs :joy: just get TB 110s

Trucks are good.


Thank you, I’ll purchase the pulley kit from Haggy. Does the motor pulley have to come from Haggy as well? It seems its 20usd a piece, is it worth it? If it is a major difference, or compatibility, then its not a question.

Thank you! Are the trucks worth the money they cost? (160usd-ish with mounts) They seem to be the best option.

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Thank you! Would you go for the 100 or the 110mm version?


For your circumstances of shipping yes, plus they are extremely high grade trucks. Very very strong

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No, pretty much universal if you match the motor pulley type with the shaft.


What do you mean by shipping circumstances? If they ship from taiwan, they are going to cost at least 30% more due to the customs.

Thank you! In this case I think ill go for a generic 8mm pulley for the motors, 40usd(+customs) for a pair seems a bit overboard

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Aw, makes sense. I’m not familiar with such costs. But yes I would say they are an amazing truck option

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Then it is decided, thank you!

I have two sets of the 110s and never tried the 100s, so I’m biased. If I bought a fresh set of wheels today, they would be 78A 110s without question.


Thank you, I’ll look into wheel size pros cons a bit more, but I’ve abandoned the abec.
Any advice on the general questions?

Your wheels will also get hit by customs if you get them from TB