i wouldn’t say “fight”, it more just feels less, playful, than 2wd
turned on 4wd are just easy to make but while carving i find it’s more serious and doesn’t fling you around like 2 does
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How is tire wear on 4WD? Do they overall wear less quickly compared to rears on a 2WD system, or is it still biased towards the rear due to weight transfer?
Depends on your style, throttle wears the back and brakes wear the front
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i found pretty even wear
hard to tell now but just this morn i looked down and no wheel had more of their new-tire seam thing worn more than the other
least i don’t really have to rotate my tires ever once in a while
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I wouldn’t be looking at a double stack under slung enclosure for this.
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This is so true with my 4wd setup i had before i broke some parts XD, i was getting 20-25 miles goin 25 mph on average on 145mm tires with tons of hills i mean literally every other street was a hill whether being up or downhill on a 12s10p p26a pack and got the exact same range in a 2wd configuration with the same 145mm wheels with the same gear ratio on the same terrain.
Alot of times @Audiobahn1000 people to try to talk down on 4wd as glyphiks mentioned having never built,ridden or did log data test comparisons between a 4wd and 2wd build of same voltage,gearing,wheel size and amps settings. Or even rode on a proper 4wd vesc based build and not some shitty prebuilt 4wd board.
Another thing to note is 2wd and 4wd are in two completely different worlds of there own and should never be compared to one another because there is big differences between the type of optimized setup that makes a 2wd board have great torque and acceleration with x wheel size and gear ratio is completely different from wat is a optimized setup for a 4wd board to have good torque with x wheel size and gear ratio.
And as far as how much range ur gonna get from a 2wd vs a 4wd it really comes down the amount of Ps u have in that battery pack configuration and the cell you choose more so then the voltage of the battery pack itself. Since not all cells perform equally and certain cells preform worse or better under load then others while also holding more energy at certain voltages then other cells. Since the more Ps you have in a pack the less your battery will sag under load aka while ur riding which will give you more efficiency/range. So for example if your riding on a 4p pack and every time u put that pack under load u voltage sag between 2-5 volts vs riding on a 8p pack voltage sag under load would possibly be around 1-3 volts ur wasting less energy with the extra added Ps.
Also one more thing i wanna add to this as well is the wh/mile difference on 2wd in particular with high gear ratios vs low gear ratios on x wheel size. In my particular use case ive currently been riding on a 2wd 4.4 ratio 12s10p p26a diy gear drive flux with 8" kendas. average wh/mile is 40 and highest was 100 wh/mile with vast majority of the rides wh/mile bouncing between 35 -80 wh/mile.
Now that same battery pack used it on a 2.78 2wd gear drive diy that was originally a 4wd with the exact same 8" kendas again average wh/mile was around 40 wh/mile and highest wh/mile log ever spiked was 90 wh/mile with overall averages bein between 35-70 or 80 from time to time. With way less torque of course but ive never personally found a benefit to havin a higher ratio for supposedly ‘more efficient wh/mile’ then a lower gear ratio using the same tire size in 2wd. Of course for 2wd u need to have at least a 4.0 ratio or higher to have good torque to blast uphills and launch off the line but lower ratios on 2wd arent good unless u use the appropriate tire size that is optimal to have that same feeling of good torque and acceleration as a larger tire, high gear ratio board.
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Tell that to Lacroix and their $7000 behemoth boards 
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Eh those are street boards, not exactly off road boards. You can take a Ferrari onto a rally stage, but it doesn’t mean it works well.
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I guess everyone has their idea of what “moderate” off-roading means.
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What about EScs? Dual Stormcore 60D+es or Focbox Unities? Or something else? Also, looking for a small smart BMS. Only need like 5A charging and that’s about it. Dont need discharge. Recommendations?
@Audiobahn1000 LLT Smart Bms, make sure u fuse ur charge port or get your charge port fused if u have someone else building your pack for you, as far as vesc goes in the current market ur lookin at either dual maker dv6s, 60d+ or uboxes. Unities are garbo from massivestator dont even go that route and xeniths unforunately the newer version doesnt have a canbus or imu so completely useless for 4wd setups. Though if u can find 2 older xeniths that would be good as well but tbh spending 200$+ nowadays on a v4 vesc is a complete waste of money unless ur building some small commuter board.
Oh and i also suggest for 4wd if ur gonna be running both ur drivetrains from the same battery pack u stay at 8p at the minimum or go higher because under load ur pack will sag about 3-6volts which isnt too good but could be alot worse. Dont short change ur stability for street riding, use qind tires if ur gonna be riding on the street alot. If ur gonna be riding in dirt every now and again then primo alphas with trampa phatlad hubs are a better bet.
And because ur goin 4wd u dont need a super high gear ratio since ur already doubling ur torque,acceleration and brakin power from doin 4wd so optimal ratios for 4wd builds usually sit between 2 to 3.5 and of course because of having 4wd with the lower gear ratios ur optimal wheel size change vs a person on 2wd with the same ratios because unless they go for higher voltage the low gear ratio on 2wd with 8" tires will really make their torque shit and uphill climbing bad. So u can run 8" without any torque loss and still have a top well over 40 mph.
And i also highly recommending top mounting ur vesc in top mounted enclosures and leaving the undertray enclosure stricty for ur battery pack and bms. Keeps temps much lower on ur vesc which of course gives u more perfomance and fun and u can gain alot more airflow with top mounted enclosures to keep said vesc cool then tryin to stuff everything in a undertray enclosure.
Going for a Evo imo is bad because of the asymmetrical design ur taking away stability and balance from urself by riding a deck with less foot real estate in the rear, giving urself not that much room for foot angle adjustments while riding. Yes some people sends it on evos and love it and i have personally ridden the entire evo family line up the 36,40" and bioboards v1 deck which was basically a 46" version of the evo and i can tell u from my experience on those boards by comparison to just normal symmetrical decks ur much better off with a symmetrical deck plus another that asymmetry can take away precious enclosure space to store more cells which is also something u dont want. I suggest gettin the octopus deck kit from boundmotor Octopus Deck Kit- 12S8P Enclosure with New Dropdown Skateboard Deck - BOUNDMOTOR its a really good 40" deck with a 12s8p enclosure thats 4wd ready, completely symmetrical, can run adjustable baseplates on etc. Perfect for what ur currently tryin to build. You can do a 12s8p P42a 4wd setup now then in the future add a top mounted battery and do another 12s8p to connect to one of ur vesc while the other vesc connects to the undertray pack, have well over 3k wh in capcity and tons of discharge range for ur setup.
Or alternatively u can do full top mount everything with both the vesc and battery since again u mentioned u wanna do some offroading and u can still get that octopus deck and toss a 12s8p pelican case on it then upgrade in the future.
IK i keep adding shit on but trying to give you the best build layout i can think of for motors 4 flipsky 6354s would do perfect in a 4wd setup, cans arent super long adding alot of weight but still 190kv so they will have a good long power band for a high top speed even if u dont get to that top speed its just good to have it available to u on a 8mm d-shaft with Boardnamics geardrives m1-AT. Dont fuck with belts they are inefficient,not all season ridable, high maintenance and worst freerolling resistance of all drivetrain types, and dam sure not a smart idea to be using a drivetrain that is open while offroading thats a completely uncessary and avoidable disaster.Even in street riding in the city,debris,trash and other random shit can be on the ground and ur not gonna avoid it all so why use a drivetrain where if some shit gets stuck in it that can throw u off ur board or if u brake or accelerate to hard ur wheel rotation can skip because the drivetrain cant keep up with the power ur trying to put down. Its not worth the risk to yourself ur already taking a risk by riding on a vesc based esc dont increase your chances of shit goin wrong by using belts its just fuckin facepalm. Theres gonna probably be a belt drive warrior coming to say “oh belts are this,belts are that, belts are dirt cheap blah blah blah” but dirt cheap does not outweigh daily usability and performance.
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If you can get a FlexiBMS Lite
on the road with regular sized wheels it seemed overly heavy and overly powerful.
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So are you saying we should try 3x4?
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2x motors always worked great to me. one motor is annoying. 3x is one too many for me.
4x4…if i pulled the throttle not even all the way the board would just rise like a centimenter and all wheels would spin. maybe if i weighed a hundred more pounds it would be appreciated but for me it was a waste
Dreams about 6x6 board with drop down middle wheels to not have undue rolling resistance
plus they could be geared lower
and it looks like a rover
Wait is this thread about practical boards? Oke imout
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Do westcoast drive with faster front wheels and torquey back wheels
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Is there any issue with powering each dual esc with separate battery.
For example instead powering both esc-s with one 12s6p what would be a downside of powering each with 12s3p? I would need 2 bms obviously.
Does generally both esc drain batteries roughly the same?
Could someone share a metr log of a 4x4 off road ride?
Regular sketbord. Wheel from a onewheel pint in the middle that drops down.
And I’m out.
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The only issue I can see would be if you used CAN to communicate between the two ESCs, with no common ground reference. So if your remote receiver and programming USB went to one ESC with the other configured as a slave, running on 2-wire CAN, there’s theoretically a problem. 2 wire (my flipskys use this) has 2 data signals, and it’s sort of implied that both transmitter and receiver are measuring data lines against a common reference. Usually this isn’t an issue because the battery negative shared by master and slave ESCs is the common reference.
I can’t say with any confidence at all whether or not it would actually cause a problem, I haven’t looked into the signalling spec. You can get around this by either providing a power ground link between the battery negatives (probably by building two batteries with normal XT90 connectors, and then building a little harness that attaches to the ESCs with parallel ground) or by making a signal ground link between the two ESCs (probably by sticking a wire into a ground pin in an unused UART/other IO on each ESC and silicone-ing it in place). Power ground and signal ground as terms don’t matter a huge amount here, I’m just trying to differentiate between big 12/10/8AWG power wire vs 22/24/26 tiny thing. If you’re connecting batteries I’d go big, connecting signalling go small.
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