SuzyQ - Selfbuilt DD 107mm 12S4P 40T Unity VX1 Streetcarver

Finally finished my board, and I love how she talks and how she walks. Took some time to get myself a batterypack (Thanks Lee-Ion), and later took some trial and error to build the enclosure. Most of the actual pain was in programming the Unity for the VX1 remote. Rowan and also Mees helped me out in that one, I owe him a couple of beers.

What I love, is the silent and smooth ride compared to the hub-motors that I was used to ride. The direct drive is a bit unstable at higher speeds, but very smooth and stable for short turns. Can’t state enough that it really is a smooth and quiet ride, and less trying for the feet.

Battery is 12s4P Samsung 40T, close to 700wh.
Motors are direct drive, similar to Elofty, with double kingpin trucks.
Would have preferred regular kingpin but hey, it works.
Now I have a rattle in one of the motors, don’t know yet if or when I will open the motor to fix it. First thing I did when I received the motors was loctite all bolts. Then, that time I did not deemed it feasable to open the motors to check or replace the bearings. Hence now I don’t think I will open the motors for a rattle.
So, if you have NOS direct drive regular or reversed kingpin motors for sale in Europe; let me know, I am always interested in a spare unit!

In the Netherlands E-Steps are prohibited on public roads for at least 2 years, Esk8 is prohibited for at least 5 years and probably longer. I dont mind a ticket but dont want to loose my board.
Subconscious thats why I like to watch dirtbike chases on Youtube as mental training… Feel confident assuming no choppers will be employed in sub-urban area where I live.

I have a 15A charger (650W), and use 4 contacts for the charge only BMS, buttoned up weathertight.
A big cap is preperation in case the Unity powerswitch fails and I want to integrate a loop-key.
Make of the deck I would have to look up, but cut it clean to never have wheelbite and stiffened top and bottom with glass-epoxy.
Ordered a Roger Bros footstop as the bearing aft of the deck is too low to be effective.
The lights are Chinese make, ‘Moon’ model ‘Nebula’. Not cheap, but I love them, wide angle beam.
The griptape is 3M Safety walk in yellow.
The metal sign on top is from Ebay, an authentic plaque with directions for arming an aircraft ejection seat. I think it is more appropriate then whatever I could imagine myself.
The big cap from Aliexpress is space reservation to enclose the loopkey if required.
I have used plenty of self-emulgating tape, because I ran out of heat shrink tubing.
For remote I know have the Flipsky VX1, but it is loosing signal to often.
Will remove this tape from the receiver, and hotglue it more out-of-the-way from the heatsink, hope that will do. Didn’t loose signal while riding yet, but feel unsafe thinking it could…
Also have a mini remote but don’t like the trigger, and ATM feel the Hoyte is a gamble regarding signal strength.

The enclosure is glass-epoxy, no filler, some spraypaint.
The sealing is MS-Polymer, moulded in situ so a tight fit to the enclosure.
Whenever I think there might be moist inside, I can unscrew the 4 x M5 nuts to open or ventilate the interior. Seems safe to me and would do it again on any future self-built. Akin to valve-covers.
Tried clay for mould but it cracked premature, due to uneven thickness.
Tried gypsum / plaster but the way I did it gave no smooth finish.
Final attempt resorted to 0,8mm cardboard and some hotglue as a negative mould; worked like a bliss.
Not perfect (you wouldn’t know if I didn’t tell, right?) but plenty of control over shape and surface finish.
The cardboard peeled of with no effort after wetting once the epoxy was cured.
The ESC is bolted onto an aluminium cover, with silicone thermal pad inbetween.
The controlboards inside are treated with 3 layers silicone conformal coating, easy and satisfying tasks to do.
The sticker is not authentic but I love AVE’s channel and that’s what counts for me, the text is right again.
The white on the wheels is not permanent, it washes off, but I try to avoid puddles and rain anyways.

Let me know what you think, wonder or question, thank you Forum for the inspiration, hope someone finds a thing to take for their first build as well :).
The pictures in almost random order:



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Thanx! found it

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for marking and labeling the battery.

IMHO all batteries we make should have a date, cell type, builder, charge voltage, series count, and current limits written on them.

This is something that’s almost all pros and no cons, it’s fast and cheap and really only helps and doesn’t hurt. Under some circumstances, especially once stuff gets resold or passed on, it can be a safety feature as well.


Isn’t 15A for 4P 40T quite high? I thought 2A/cell would be the standard.

Edit: Yeah, 2A is standard, up to 6A… wow :thinking:

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For longevity it’s definitely bad… U want to keep it under 0.5C per cell… So 2A per 40T or 8A for that pack


Less good, still within spec from datasheet, or do I miss something?