…and quality axles. Shoulder bolts have their own problems that these solve.
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Wait, what happens if the grub screw hole happens to land right where there’s a corner of the polygon? With a pentagon that would require at minimum a 36 degree turn to get the grub screw hitting the polygon straight on. Wouldn’t that cause unwanted misalignment? (I can’t do the math to find out how much 
) Although I guess 1/10th of a turn ain’t too bad
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Back out the axle and change the start point 20 degrees (?) and rethread.
I think.
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Aren’t these metric bolts with just 1 position (rotation) they’ll even start going in?
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This is just what I need for my SR TKP. Just wondering. Is there a fat spot on the axle for the SR hanger set screw? Maybe that can help with the loosening
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Why not have small sections the width of the set screw with a smaller OD to axially constrain the axle? It cant screw loose if it cant back out
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Mannnnn.
Just through some loctite 680 in that bitch. Won’t even need the grub screw (will still use it of course), torch will take it off if you need to, but why would you ever?!?
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Correct. We really want that grub to land on a flat, not an vertex. So back the axle out until the M5x6 sinks all the way into the hanger.
Let’s say you land exactly on a vertex. The next vertex is 72 degrees away (360/5=72), and the flat where we want to be is 36 degrees away. You’d back the screw out 36 degrees to get to the flat. That 36 degree rotation means the motor mount is now 0.125mm off the hanger (it’s no longer flush). The maximum deviation here is <0.25mm
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Thanks for doing the math, 0.125mm is really nothing to worry about! 
P.S. I’ve heard people say to forget about using Grub Screws on Surf Rodz trucks, something about stripping the screw / it somehow scratching the axle and then ruining the inside of the hanger. Gonna agree with @Sender that “loctite and forget” is what most people will / should do
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I do like this idea. Maybe half the thread pitch width.
I worry that in doing so we might deform the axle and make it impossible to remove.
But if the axle diameter is reduced at that point it may be OK. Say from 9.95mm down to 9.5mm - a 0.225mm reduction may be enough to avoid problems.
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I was thinking more like 8mm OD section thats 5mm wide(M5 set screw right?)
My 2 piece hanger idea thing utilizes a dog set screw to key the axle.
Loctite works and all but I have learned that people want to adjust EVERYTHING. Green loctite will make it never come out without a shit ton of heat which will kill the anodize on the hanger.
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and probably take off the helicoil with it. Or compromise it?
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I’ve got to see the design. I’m pretty sure I understand the idea. Lemmie poke around.
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Maybe it’s worth testing if these washers are enough to stop the axle from coming out lol
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Torching the axle might work.
Hot AF though.
Nordlock washer axle with integrated mounting plate.
esk8 2020 
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Huh. yes, they might work. I’d need to see what their sizing looks like.
Why not making the mounting still sit on the hanger a bit. I mean on the round end of the hanger.
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As soon as these go into a hanger they are married IMO.
At least that is how I choose to look at it. That’s the fucking beauty of it!
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yeah if you use loctite red or green