Super small ESC box and disipator for Unity/Stormcore (Tribute to James Ronnie Dio)

Hey there everybody,
there’s a project i’ve been working on for a while for myself, it mets all of my expectation and i had a really good contact with the machinist so i’m willing to do a (limited) batch for the comunity
(not for money but to be fair with the cnc guy and because i’d be super happy to know that i’ve contributed to this comunity after all this time here with you all)

You’ve probably seen some pictures of it arround since i love it ahahah
It does a good job as a dissipator, a perfect job as a box, and actually a pretty nice job as footstop.

One more dissipator case for Unity ? Why ?

Basically i went a big deck with a huge double stack 3D printed enclosure to a tinny Trampa Carver deck with a (beautifull) Eboosted enclosure.
I wanted to be able to ride this board on thanes so low clearance and i wanted some space to be able to add a couple of pgroup to that battery if ever.

So the idea was to put the ESC on top, but there was no way i would put a bulcky rectangular box on this fine looking deck, so i took my calliper and strated to design an enclosure to fit at best the trampa deck nose and to clip it to the baseplate.


How small is it ?

At first the idea was to have it fit the unity height perfectly to get the flatter box possible, there’s a bit of space on the side for the remote receiver and on the other side for a metr.
It’s still an option, but on the meantime my unity antispark didn’t survive a particularly vicious powersurge so i had to make some more space to fit a maytech antispark.

in this version it sits at 4cm with the whole alu plate and dissipator (those are pretty thick, arround 8mm each),
without external antispark, with a bit less of termal pads (i used a 1,5mm one i had laying around) and maybe with slightly smaller plates i’m confident it could be 3cm or so.


what with the box?

The sides are 3D printed (by myself)
Originaly with carbon fiber infused PLA (which looking perfect with the deck)
but it gaves me some connectivity issue with my remote (half a second of latency, in a super busy place witch much interferances from the machines digging a metro station, but still enough to scare the shit out of me)
So i made a new version in PLA+ with which i didn’t had any issue so far (i went back to this specific place on purpose to test it)

The PLA works in compression between the two alluminium plate and is held down with 8* M5 screws so it’s pretty resistant (i got my board upside down the other day and it didn’t bat an eye, my knees on the opposite…)

The idea was to have it at least splash resistant without having to add gromets or any external part, and i’m pretty happy with this solution, i wouldn’t try to put it on purpose in a water tank but it already took some abuse without any water ingress.

what with the dissipator?

The two plates are massive and the fins work just well,
i cannot say i’m going fast or i live in a particularly hilly place,
but it’s fairly hot outta here in summer, with my actual config (80A bat, 100A motor x2, on 12s) the hotter i reached was 39°C and it was 35°C outside to strat with.
(yeah i need to sort out my metr issue, but meantime here’s a screenshot)

those 4 m3 screws hold tight your unity or stormcore on the dissipator, and you can add some termal paste or thermal pad in between for more efficacity.
(we’ll talk about the stormecore compatibility a bit further)

what with the graphics?

Basically this is what happens when i’m getting bored of doing 3Ds of buildings but am still “playing” with autocad…
That’s my tribute to J.R. Dio, if you ever recognised the “cat’s” face from the Holy Diver album cover.

Let’s face it, does it really fits the Stormcores ?

This design was originally made for the Unity, and that’s what i got inside my box.
I checked the mounting patern and the external dimensions and it should be allright.
The only potential issue is the aligment with the the wire exit for the motor phases.
It should be ok but i need to double check this, if it’s not the exact same alignement it is possible to make another version of the 3D printed part and get the whole thing working exactly the same without problem.

When do we get started ?

I’m willing to sell as a set the two allu plates + the printed side part (probably disponible in black or in white) + the hardware ( 8M5 screws and nylock bolts + 4M3 screws)
but it’s maybe not the best ? (you can answer that in the survey)

(please note than my 3D printing is usually better than the box in the picture, i got an issue with the printer lately and didn’t got free time to reprint one since i fixed the issu)

The guy i was in contact with from the machinist is from a chinese prototyping and small serie production compagnie, i’m not affiliated with them in any more way than that but i had a really good experience with them (decent prices, fast work, good quality fast shipping) and i’d like to get an idea of how big a batch we are going for (given that someone else than me is interested in such a specific item xD) and ask him for a quote.
(the price for one prototype set was 135gbp anodization and shipping included, i expect than a bigger batch will be resonably less expensive)

to figure out all of this, i’d like you to fill this google form so i can get an idea of the interest, and then we’ll talk about the price, shipping and more technical data.

If you have any suggestion, don’t be shy.

LINK FOR THE GOOGLE SURVEY : https://forms.gle/MqN46qGHZkArxdJ38
(this survey is just informative, by filling it you don’t get bound to anything, but help me get a realistic idea of the quantities involved)

some more pics



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Looks really nice!

Pretty similar to what I am doing right now.

Good luck!

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sweet brother!

well done!! looks tight… I’m doing long range CF PLA tests on 3d printed parts… I’ll be interested to hear how your parts work out long term

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This specific one is too recent, but the enclosure i had on my last deck (RIP) was pretty sturdy, after almost a year of comunte it was still looking like new (then i spray pinted it and covered with boat vernis, that worked well too)

(The pumpkin and the Panther, A story, Two builds, and even Some blood all the grey parts ar CF PLA)

It resisted a lot more than the parts i made with tpu (total lack of flex)

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I had ONE 3d printed VESC enclosure from CF PLA crack in a weird location… against the layer lines and away from stress points, but otherwise it’s been working OK… but it is under the board, not on top like yours

In the last build it was under the deck as well, never got a crack,
What brand do you use and what settings ? (Numbers of wall and filling)
i found that using much higher temperature (218), fast print (80-90mm/s) and no cooling works well with this
(I use rubby tipped nozzel)

That’s looks awesome, i made this awhile back just a little big so I’m redesigning it.


Cut it a little off the bottom will a accommodate VESC 6 and Unity. Still working on the heat sink fins on
top.

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Looks dope ! Are the sides aluminium as well ?
What about the battery leads ? Isn’t that a problem with your back foot ?

Really like the alu lid design :grin:

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No the housing is Delrin

I like how it’s reflecting the gear drives’s red on the picture !

Bumpy bump
Don’t forget to fill the form :slight_smile:

Not done yet, just a peak.

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