If you charge a 12s battery with 2x 6s chargers from the same charger then the negative of one and the positive of the other are shared on the pack side, but both positives are shared on the charger side, so the first battery shorts out through the positive line
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So how would you charge 2x 6S on a parallel board? Is that not the whole point to be able to charge multiple packs?
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You need to separate the 2 halves of the battery, the series 6 to 7 connection MUST be broken to charge both at the same time
You can charge 2 6s batteries with a dual 6s charger but you cannot charge a 12s battery with a dual 6s charger
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Right that is exactly what I did. I have a 12s6p pack that is made from 2 6s6p packs.
Each pack has its own balance leads with 7 pins (6 pos + 1 neg) and xt90 connectors.
When charging I separate the 2 packs connected in series. However when I plugged the 2nd balance lead into the parallel board, the fireworks happened. 
There must be a sequence to connecting, do you
- connect both balance leads first
- then connect each xt90 connectors to the parallel board
or is it the other way around?
I think I had the xt90 and balance lead connected to the parallel board from one pack first and then I attempted to connect the 2nd balance leads in and maybe this is what caused a surge of current and mishap?
If your battery output tab is for example 10cm long, and you put the output wire at the one end of the tab, ofcourse the whole battery current will have to travel through the entire 10cm of lenght of the nickel to the wire, instead of traveling “sideways” only one or two cm to the wire.
Thats why you see some people soldering 10cm of cable to their output nickel tab, for the copper to take the current instead of nickel.
nvm read the post and saw why your nickel blew up haha
Thanks, I will be making this modification and correction over the weekend! A bad oversight on my part.
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Or can weld .1mm copper strip with most welders
From what I have read some special electrode materials are need, I tried welding copper plated nickel and couldnt get any good results with my kweld which welds .3mm nickel without any issues…
Maybe i need to try out copper strips from different suppliers though.
Interesting, couldn’t manage 0.3 mm properly with kweld, only 0.2 mm.
I was reaching near 2000 A and tried with 100 J but still couldn’t go through the nickel enough to make a solid weld.
Different nickel perhaps?
.3 is a no go with kweld for me too. Unless relief cuts and sharp electrodes
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0.3mm nickel not a problem for me 4s2p turnigy panther
Im welding it at 55J but its perforated, thats makes quite a difference I guess, but I tried welding so the current doesnt go “through” the perforated part but like on normal nickel without any holes and it still did the job pretty well, maybe sharpen your electrodes a bit.
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Would sand paper be enough or do you use something else to sharpen?
Yea, I put mine in a battery drill and use it so i dont have to file manually 
Just for clarity in this picture with the orientation of the nickle it is atualy apro 80mm wide nickel. As @glyphiks said it all depends how the nickle is used and how many amps are travailing through the smallest part (bottle neck)
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Which I could find this in Europe:
What electrodes u use? I have the Bosswelder and have only seen it doing up to .2mm copper.
@kevingraehl
@magharees
Using the Kweld, my boss got weak, probably damaged fets do I use it for soldering only now.
Kweld has really good copper alloy welding electrodes
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I find the electrodes have a big effect. Looking for some that are better than came w the boss