Have you considered putting the electronics in a small top mount enclosure like the Step Bro build, so the bottom tray is just battery space?
1 Like
Im wanting to avoid topmount enclosures. Ive done it before, but i think it looks cheap.
4 Likes
After about two hours fucking around in CAD and chatting with the only battery builder i know that would put up with my stupidity/abition 
(thanks @slizer18 )
14S5P staggered layout, while still retaining two internal D100S ESC’s. Has to use custom cell holders, custom nickel tabs, and the ZBMS has to be integrated in underneath the pack in between the groups and will have to be modified to fit, but… it should work?
5 Likes
Bro this build is bloody bonkers! Sweet layout with the staggered battery, using the brackets as heatsinks for the esc’s is beautiful. Are you concerned about vibrations?
The Idea deck and brackets are a beautiful setup, I’ve been riding it for the past week and love the drop down and stable base, but for me the deck platform isn’t long enough for a comfortable high speed stance, my feet always hang over onto the brackets. How have you found the riding experience?
1 Like
For vibrations, we’ll have to see what i have space to put more damping in for haha. Ideally after running the SR125’s it won’t be too bad. I’ll probably make the cell holders out of some sort of TPU. Might also end up putting some kind of rubber pad between the deck and brackets to also absorb some.
As for the stance, i’ve always found it adequate. Sure, it could be longer, but then you’d be taking away from the nimble ride feel it has, which i feel is great and one of the bonuses. Compared to my nazare, i actually find the IDEA setup preferable and much more nimble. Then again, i’m not that tall of a guy, so maybe it’s less of an issue for me lol.
2 Likes
The enclosure mold is almost done printing! After this it just needs to be adhered together, gaps filled in, and then sanded smooth before being prepped for the carbon layup.
Also - 53T pulleys are here and ready to go. This board is seriously starting to come together.
8 Likes
I’m very excited to see how this goes
2 Likes
Sweet looking mold, i know it’s taking a while but your method is probably going to get better results with less work than doing it by hand out of foam. Keep at it 
1 Like
Well, the mold is effectively done printing. Just need to print the endplates to help hold it together. However, its got some pretty noticeable gaps because the larger plates were printed on my riced out shitbox of a CR10 smart pro… so it has a fair bit to go before this mold is smooth enough for me to do a layup on. I’ll need to glue the sections together, fill the gaps, sand everything smooth and do some kind of final coating before prepping it for the layup.
Speaking of “other things i have to do and dont have time to do”
The new Voron Trident kit came in (finally). Hoping to assemble it this weekend.
Lastly, the 53T pulleys that i thought were done, turns out to have an issue. Theyre 14mm wide instead of the specified 16mm, so im having them remade. If anyone here has a use for a 14mm wide 53T pulley, hit me up - they’ll be heavily discounted.
8 Likes
Bondo (car bodywork) is great at this, if you’re looking for a material 
2 Likes
I would agree, but ill need something structurally sound and im dubious of bondo’s ability to do so for such a large gap lol. We used it for a formula SAE nosecone mold and had issues with it cracking when the mold was manipulated.
Ill probably buy a 3d printing pen and plastic weld across the seams with it, before sanding back and then doing a skimcoat of bondo.
Epoxy/silica (can be bought premixed as “thixo”) is also an option. Apply with a squeegee and sandpaper it afterwards.
4 Likes
