Why is my oder in usa when it should be in Finland? 
Edit: probably my misstake. John looked into it and package is in europe on the way to me
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Hey, Thank you for your suggestions.
for 1, Don’t worry for this point. Three layers of 5-ounce copper foil are used under this pad to conduct the positive current, and our new batch of MOS boards has further optimized and adjusted the layout of the mosfet bridge, changing from the original parallel layout to "7"shape layout. The current path is further optimized, so the copper busbar of the positive electrode of the new batch is omitted; the negative electrode is still reserved to maximize the heat capacity
for 2, I well noticed and in shipping assembly ,we don’t use too much screw force on it.
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Hi, friends, thanks for this helpful picture reminding, I 'm working on it. And I recommend all friends to do so to strengthen the reliability of ESC.
- Do not tighten the screws too tightly, use screw glue to prevent loosening.
- There are control board socket pins on bottom side of the negative battery cable. Remove the 704 glue at that place and replace it with AB glue. Assemble it after the AB glue is dry completely.
- The six electrolytic capacitors are recommended to be sealed and positioned with 704 glue to avoid long-term vibration and break the pins.
and we already cut in these strengthen actions in production since Nov 24th. And if you can add it in your board, it would be better. sorry and thanks!
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What kind of glue is AB?
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two part epoxy (A + B).
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In weld?
Or would the steel in it cause issues
Also how much of a necessity is this?
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If chinese manufacturers say it very…
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Meant jb weld
sorry autocorrect
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I tried to pull today 120A motor current per motor and I experienced some motor stutter and the fault code ABS over current. Is there any reason for this or a workaround to fix this? Never had this fault code with other VESCs at the same current while accelerating.
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Increase ramping time, increase ABS over current value in VESC tool (alternatively use no_limits_fw for an even higher max ABS over current value), if nothing else works you’re going to have to reduce your motor current.
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Do you use the custom FW?
If no, update please and set the absolute max current limit to 480 A (that’s the max you can set it without using hw no limit FW).
After that you shouldn’t experience this problem anymore.
As minimum it fixed exactly the same issue for me.
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hello
need some help trying to get mine going, ive got 2 motors
i have esca working wheel is spinning but escB is not working led 3 isnt lighting up either how do i get B working?
have tested both motors on escA and both motors work so they are wired correctly
thanks
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Are the canbus id names different from each other?
I had my fair share ( actually more like enormous share) of failed antispark believe me.
But yeah I use and trust the spintend with its powerswitch, the design is quite unusual, but rather more reliable because the power doesn’t flow through extra mosfets.
It is indeed a true anti-sparking function together with a logic-side switch.
To be honest, the antispark mosfets that disconnect the capacitors could be removed and replaced with a xt90S. Anyway it isn’t that bad if you have one spark when building the board. Then the logic switch is sufficient for 99% of applications. Just like on traditional bldc controllers. Just like the new trampa.
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I for one love the fact that you honestly give good advices to solve minor concerns. Shows true understanding and willingness to improve.
Your design is already very good still.
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I think 704 is sufficient for isolation of pins though. Or just cut those flush carefully not damaging the pcb
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I run 100A per side at 14s no problem. At these power levels you need very well tuned setup, so make sure you have proper detection and strong connection everywhere. If your motor keeps saturating you have to reduce impedance
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if led3 isn’t lighting up, then it’s firmware bricked, need to reflash firmware in, can’t be fixed by uploading the custom firmware.
If you don’t know how to flash firmware by st-link. please send it back to us. thanks
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No need for st-link anymore. You can flash the firmware via SWD port of a working vesc based esc. Usually the cable from SWD to SWD shouldn’t be longer then 8cm, but with a bit luck it could even be possible to flash the bricked side from the working side of the UBox.
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Probably. I’ll have some spare 737 that’s basically the same thing… strong as fuck