I just connected both the head and taillight to the fan port and installed a rocker switch to operate them.
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Hey friends, currently having issues getting a Robogotchi to pair alongside my ubox v1. Everytime I try pairing in the freesk8 app, it stalls at “Requesting ESC version”
What I’ve tried:
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Every button combo Spintend lists in their documentation, then pairing - same result
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Every button combo listed, followed by a power cycle and then pairing - same result
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Switching the uni1 remote settings from VESC to: A and then B - same result
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Disabling the BT via the remote’s “BT Idle” option, then pairing - same result
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Debinding the remote and then pairing - same result
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All of the above steps were attempted with Robo plugged into both ESC A and then B
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Ensured that UART is enabled on both sides within input config
It seems like my remote is occupying one UART port, and the Bluetooth is occupying the other. However, even when I set the BT to Idle via the remote, I cannot pair the Robo. Additionally, even when I unbind the remote altogether from the ESC, presumably leaving that UART port open, I still cannot pair.
I think I’ve tried just about every setting change I can think of.
SEND HELP
Edit for posterity: figured it out… managed to get the OG Robo to pair via: plugging Robo into VESC-B side UART. Within the remote settings → set remote to VESC-A side UART and BT to idle. Then press power button 5x times to disable BT. Then pair Robo.
This is the only method that seems to work for me.
Following the same steps with the gotchiPro was unsuccessful, so all indication is that it’s just an app compatibility issue. New version rolling out soon, should do the trick.
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Worth pointing out that we also tested using an original robogotchi and a gotchiPro, with the same result, so strong indication that uart isn’t getting properly enabled/switched over internally on the Ubox.
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Is the uni1 V2 remote charge port USB C? I have the uni1 V1 remote which is micro USB
Yes USB-c Nice remote but for some reason has trouble reading high erpms. Seems like the max is around 80k to 90k where it will max out reading speed. For instance on mine it maxes out at 33mph but I can actually get up to 45ish
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Are your pole pairs entered correctly within the remote settings?
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Ye everything is completely accurate. It just stops at 33 even though I can still accelerate more lol
Yeah the speed readings are a little off compared to my davega for my uni1 v1 and iirc it gets more different at higher speeds
How can the ubox have different FW for the same unit?
100a FW
300a FW
So if the hardware in the controller can comfortably sustain those higher amps, why arent more people using it? Is it just that most motors we use cant handle those amps without turning to slag?
also curious… are these fw imposing hard amp limits? or could I just run 110amps on my 100a firmware if the temps can handle it
135 is the 100A FW limit
coolcoolcool, thank u!
Giving a J model ubox a go at the moment. My only experience really has been with maker X ESC’s. Do these spintends function ok on 5.2 with the current android vesctool? Or will I get the same screwy shit that was happening with my dv6 and d75’s?
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Should be fine but make sure you use Spintend’s custom fw
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Yeah that was why I asked… Only way I’ve been able to sort the maker’s was by reloading firmware after the mobile vesctool does whatever it does to mess shit up
How do you do this exactly? In the PC version.
The 100A firmware will throw overcurrent faults if you exceed 100A.
The 300A firmware has overcurrent faults disabled (Spintend will also not give you warranty).
I am curious what the “ok” range for amps on the unlimited firmware is.
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Last time I checked they’ve updated all the current custom fw to run 6.0, but if you hunt around the blog on spintends website you might find the 5.3 version… You also want to make sure you install it using whichever vesc tool they pair it up with in their download folders.
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Was this also true for ubox v2 or was this issue only on the v1?
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