Yes it does
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Here is another good video of the issues I’m facing with ubox firmware 5.1 R1 100amps
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Whats the common buffer amount for voltage spikes between full charged battery to peak voltage of the vesc? Whats the recommended highest S count battery for the ubox v2?
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No pics of inside the remote??
not in here
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Did you get this solved?
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hey spintend, when’s that 100v esc coming around? 
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Hey Guys,
What are your settings sorry noob question custom made a board with 6374 190kv motors and a 12s8p lg m50lt 21700 cells not the best cells but I like the range more than torque. My issue is with the ubox I am not getting the same performance as I did with the focbox tenka before I blew it up 
My issue is the brakes dont come to a complete stop and not getting the same torque as I did with the tenka used prety much the same settings also cant get it to go in reverse. Using the u1 remote atm beacuse i like that there is a horn and I dont need a separate button for it. Any help would be appriciated.
Thanks
You must be doing something wrong, built multiple boards with Uboxes, looooots of torque.
Did you write the setting to both sides of the ESC?
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yeah I did my motor current at 75a both sides and my brake current at -75a but when I hit the brake it would stop then roll slow never a complete stop so don’t really feel safe riding it 
really frustrating not sure if im doing something wrong.
Try current with smart reverse and up your battery amps +/-
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thanks will try that when I get home, should I set the remote for ppm or uart? I tried both settings but there seems to be no difference.
PPM you need to run the input wizard to set dead zones, min maxes, that sort of stuff, but gives you much more control with throttle curves, ramping, etc. UART doesn’t require setup aside from setting the stops inside the remote settings. The reverse functionality in the remote only works in UART mode, PPM requires setting a reversable mode in VESC tool.
Also it’s interesting you’re getting no brakes. I have mine set at -20A and it’s enough to nearly throw me off. Maybe your remote travel range isn’t set all the way so when it’s all the way down it’s not actually at 100%?
This month they said.
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I tried it yesterday putting the current at -50 is a lot weaker honestly don’t know how to set dead zones and playing with throttle curves, I think I got paranoid when I almost blew up the house when the tenka over voltage due to an motor pully getting jammed in the motor mount. exploded in my hand but was able to save the battery from blowing up so I try not to try something where I am not completely sure about the settings is there a tutorial on that stuff I haven’t really seen someone go into full detail of the vesc tool functionalities I have just copied someone’s settings from DIYelectricskateboard youtube channel.
Just to clarify:
Configure both vescs by connecting to the second one using CAN and writing the same settings
Motor amps should be 80/-80 each vesc
Battery amps should be 40/-20 each vesc. Try changing the -20 to -30 for better high speed braking
If that doesn’t work try plugging that remote in using the PPM cable instead of the UART cable and run the input wizard on PPM. You will move your throttle to full, center, and brake a few times so it can see what’s going on. You will have to do that on both I believe.
Use Current control with smart reverse on PPM
If you want stronger brakes with less throttle, you can adjust the throttle curve but default isn’t bad.
Lots of tutorials on YouTube walking through the whole process
You can try UART for now, all the settings are done in the Uni1 remote, and you don’t need to mess around in VESC tool that much. In the Ports Config menu (I think), set UART to your main ESC (probably A), and that’s it. For remote calibration, there’s a setting inside Remote Config to set Gear Calibration, and in there move the wheel all the way up and down, and it should calibrate 100% to the end of travel. This video might help a bit
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Is the remote in short supply? I need to replace it. I will email you but I am curious if anyone in the USA would stock them, @A13XR3 perhaps.
Seems silly to ship each person’s replacement from CN
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They made a last batch or something 2 months ago? I think they are working on uni v2 remote.
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