Seriously though, this for Boosted / Evolve / Loaded money is so on point. If I had the money Iād be on it already, even more so with an 8083 motor.
Do take battery construction tips from the guys on this forum though, itāll save you money (and potential litigation) in the long run.
FWIW if youāre thinking of front brakes in future, Iād sooner go for hydraulic on a mechanical lever, than for electronic, same as MC.
This is essentially a motorcycle you stand on, so try go for the same dynamics without handlebars of course.
Our next model will start at around $999-$1299, itās just impossible to hit that with the current model.
Weāll do all the math for the production boards to make sure the nickel strips we use can handle 25+ amps. This was what I had for the prototype. I havenāt seen any signs of them overheating so far, and I ride really hard, but yes, we will upgrade for the production board.
We use Rulon J thrust bearings for the vertical forces. The vertical forces are actually significantly less than the horizontal forces from the cantilever design.
Yeah my plan is to make a PCB for each 13s1p battery pack in production, it was just easier to do it this way for the prototype. Iāll have a battery holder bracket to create space between the cells for the production board as well.
Thatās exactly what I was going for!! Honestly itās not as loud as it is in the video.
Thank you! I think the price point is a lot harder to accept without seeing the board in person. You really do get a lot for your money. The 8083 upgrade model should only be a few hundred dollars more. Need to upgrade the motor (obviously), the VESC to handle 120 amps continuous (going to test out the Maytech 200a 6.6 VESC), and either the battery cells or an auxiliary pack to reach 125 amps continuous. Could hit that with 13s5p with the current cells, but Iād rather have a 320 Wh 13s2p auxiliary pack for added range as well.
I definitely will spend some more time researching battery construction, I had no idea how terrible nickel strips were with current capacity. Fortunately theyāre āonlyā seeing 20 amps each, but thatās definitely more than they are rated for. Iāll be beefing that up significantly in production.
I was thinking a hydraulic disk brake linked to a lever sticking up behind my rear foot that I can lean against to actuate it, then you can really lean back into it to have your weight shifted in the right direction for rapid deceleration, and use the remote to modulate braking on the rear wheel to possibly drift into the turn like on a supermoto.
Youāve got a good head on your shoulders, you seem to really get my objectives with the SPEEDBOARD. Thank you for your suggestions.
WTH, didnāt realize the size of that thing!
Lookin good.
You should put it next to a boosted for comparison XD
but it would be fun down the line to create a spec rolling chassis for the upcoming speedboard racing league!
ā¦or as I told you before, a āSpeedboard Modificatoā with an open frame with lots of room for expansion for those DIYrs who love to disassemble everything falling on their hands playing with hardware & electronics to build their own custom beast with off-the shelf components and printed parts.
Yeah I need to call on the LAESK8 gang to get a bunch of boards together for a comparison photo. It really is just a mini-motorcycle you stand on. Iāve got a Mini X I can put it next to, but thatāll just look ridiculous!
SpeeDIY. I think a rolling chassis will definitely be possible once we get the Kickstarter boards out.
Most here were concerned for lack of kapton and wires shorting. Also, once all of that is done, PVC shrink wrap the P groups. Build to make individual components in the enclosure as waterproof as possible for when water gets in.
Who doesnāt want a motorcycle you can pick up? The more powerful motor with taller gearing will get you there. Really only needs to be 40mph / 65kph capable, with brakes for the higher speed.
Damn with how big that thing is i would expect something like a 80100 motor.
An 80100 motor needs 150 amps continuous, which means going to 13s6p minimum and upgrading the speed controller. Each upgraded component requires all the other components to be upgraded as well, and then the board would be hundreds of dollars more.
Iām going to test out both 8083 and 80100 motors for the upgraded version, the issue is packaging the 80100 motor vs the 8083 motor, and the difference is only 1 kW.
Honestly Iām using the 6380 motor because I wanted to make sure the standard speedboard wonāt kill anyone, not everyone can handle 6-7 kW. 90% of customers will have more than enough with 4 kW, and the upgraded speedboard is for the rest of you.
The speedboard chassis as is can easily handle 60+ mph, but as a business owner I need to take product liability into consideration. The race speedboards will be no-holds-barred machines (9+ kW, 60+ mph) for those of you who know what to do with them, but there will be an application process to make sure people who buy them know what theyāre dealing with.
I see people using a single 6374 motor for e- MTbikes so really what youāre using is fine.
Board is just bigger than I thought. I like it more than before.
Instead I would suggest changing the chassis layout to cover the entire width of the deck. Like this you can double the space inside and easily add a beefy motor (or do 2 motors + 2 VESC, which might be cheaper than one massive motor and VESC). But most importantly, this would give you space for the ER battery pack to fit inside.
not reallyā¦ I doubt even 80100 can handle that current continuously.
Bigger stator diameter = more torque, high motor amps are easy to get at lower speed, easy to generate by the esc āinverterā. Biger motor = more mass = slower overheating = less losses.
why 13S?
I get that minimizing ohmic losses to prevent overheating of the single motor is important, but you would be taking some risk. The fact that some users have built successful 13S builds does not mean that the whole batch of ESCs that you will buy for the production boards will handle it well. No ESC right now has been officially rated to handle 13S and there are not enough boards running 13S out there to statistically prove that the fail rate is as low as on 12S.
(Just a side note, if you decide to go 13S because you feel confident with your decision just do it)
An empty board with the tyres, sprockets and steering mechanisme would be cool to buy 
Really wanna feel how this board rides. Can you just step on it and go or do you need a significant amount of practise? I know how to snowboard and waveboard and obviously skate/longboard though.