Heys guys. I am going to venture into the wonderful world of soldering and need your help.
I want to solder 4mm female bullet connectors to a new ESC I want to test. What recommendation do you guys have for a soldering iron to get the job done right. Any other gear I need? Thanks in advance!
A transformer based soldering iron with at least 65 watts. I use this one, and I like it because I prefer to old-school tips over the cartridge based ones, and because it will likely outlast non-transformer based soldering irons.
All these guys are far more experienced than I am, so take their advice over mine, but I’m a cheap cunt and got stuff from amazon which seems to have done the job on my 100D+. That said, I haven’t tested my work, so I don’t know the quality.
They are more affordable than the desktop/ soldering station options that have the same wattage. It is why I bought a ts100 to replace my weller iron station which just did not get hot enough for esk8 use.
The ts100 is more expensive than the pinecil to further show how much you can save with portable irons.
the iron set I bought no longer exists in the same manner but here is what it looked like and cost when I bought it
ts100 + two tips and a higher voltage power supply for it. When I ordered it, it was cheaper than buying everything separate. The seller only offers the ts101 with one tip, cheap soldering iron holder, and the charger currently which costs more and is not as good of a deal.
The iron I use is $45. How many watts is a TS100? Also, once you account for the cost of the cartridges, you’re spending a lot more money for something that really isn’t designed with daily use, and longevity in mind.
The sensors used on the ts100 make soldering so much better and easier IMO which makes the extra cost worth it. The tips last a long time so long as you properly care for them and tin them. I’ve not had to replace any and the tips I’ve bought were just to give me more size and shape options.
Using cheaper irons is just too much of a pain in the ass IMO and now that I’ve used something better I’ll never buy a cheap one again.
Tweezers or small pliers also work well or might be the tool you meant. even with good wire insulation it gets too hot to hold faster than you’d think.
What sensors? Imo, an iron is either hot or not, and I like a hot iron.
I have TS80, and I wouldn’t dare use it at my desktop. It would be less convenient than just reaching over, flipping on a switch, and removing it from it’s holder. I want a beefy iron with lots of metal in it. It inspires confidence. At least for me. I’ve gone through many soldering irons over the years, and the Tilswall is the first one I’ve had that I think will make it past ten years. I don’t think any portable irons could handle the kind of use/abuse I deal out for very long.
If the iron cools down due to the item your soldering acting as a heat sink the iron will pull more power to stay at the set temp. My old weller did not do that or even attempt to do it. The desktop irons I could buy with the same amount of power behind them were closer to $200 if I remember correctly. In comparison the ts100 was cheap.
My only problem with it is that it is easier for it to get knocked off my desk and for it to fall on the carpet. Even more so when my dog walks through wires with 0 fucks given to where they are connected. It falls after she has walked by so she is at least safe to do so without risk of burns.
Perhaps I’m overly pragmatic, at least I’ve been told such but I have many more metrics that I abide by when giving out my hard won monies. I’ll often research simple products for months before I decide to buy them. When it comes to objects, and materials, I’m obsessive.
Been great so far. Solder’s beefy 6awg no problem. Even picked up a jbc tip at the recommendation I saw from someone, but haven’t had a need for it as the stock tips are fine. Either way, happy with the purchase, but I know there’s cheaper options that’ll do the job that may also be better
I’m not sure when you bought yours, but the current version no longer display the tip temperature and instead use a percentage which is not helpful. knowing the exact temp is needed for more sensitive parts, smaller wires, or when a part has plastic connectors that can’t be removed.
You could figure out how to be safe if you only use that iron but if you are used to the temp or need the exact temp to avoid destroying a part (for non-esk8 soldering) it is going to be an issue.