(sold out at the moment) Lightly used LG18650MH1 (Blue) 3200mAh 10A 3.63V 11.62Wh = $1.1 for one or less. US Seller

LG18650MH1 18650 cell,3200mAh 10A 3.63V 11.62Wh GENUINE CELLS

These cells are in excellent condition, testing at 95% (or higher) of the manufacturers rated capacity.

Please take note, these cells were extracted from brand new battery packs, so they have spot weld marks and leftover nickel from the welds on the positive and negative terminals (see pics). This does not affect the cell’s performance in any way, you could spot weld or solder over them or remove very easily.

You are getting brand new quality & capacity, for the price of “used” cells which would normally have noticeably decreased capacity.

Most of our cells still test over their rated capacity, though to be on the safe side, we say 95% or higher.

Besides the spot weld marks, they are otherwise “new” in performance and quality

Rest Assured, Always 100% Authentic, GUARANTEED!


If you’re interested in placing larger bulk orders,
I have a large stock of these cells,
feel free to contact me anytime!

Below are full specifications, fell free to ask questions that weren’t covered here:

Brand: LG
Model name(s): LG18650MH1,INR18650MH1,INR18650-MH1 ,ICR18650MH1
Manufacturer full Name: LG 화학 (LG Chemical)
Origin: South Korea
Weight: 49.00 g
Diameter, max.: 18.40 mm
Height, max.: 65.10 mm
Voltage, charge max.: 4.20 V
Voltage, nominal: 3.63 V
Voltage, discharge end: 2.50 V
Capacity, max.: 3200.00 mAh
Constant charge current, max.: 3.10 A
Charge constant standard: 1.55 A
Discharge standard: 620 mA
Max. continuous discharge current: 10.00 A
Peak discharge theoretic, 4 sec: 17.5 A
C-rate (charge, max.): 0.97 C
C-rate (discharge, max.): 3.13 C
Watts (charge, max.): 11.253 W
Watts (discharge, max.): 36.3 W
Energy, max.: 11.62 Wh
Density volumetric theoretic: 672 Wh/L
Density gravimetric theoretic 237.00 Wh/kg
E-rate (charge, max.): 0.97 E
E-rate (discharge, max.):3.12 E
Chemical abbreviation: NMC
Cathode: LiNiMnCoO2
Anode: carbon
Remark: Ni-Rich
Standard charge: 2.5 hours
Rapid charge: 2 hours
Storage (less than 1 month): -20 – 60 °C
Storage (less than 3 month): -20 – 45 °C
Storage (less than 1 year): -20 – 20 °C
Temp charge, min: 0.00 °C
Temp charge, max: 45.00 °C
Temp discharge, min: -20.00 °C
Temp discharge, max: 60.00 °C
Internal impedance: 7 mΩ

Here is an in-depth data sheet about the cell and it’s testing and origin.

I am located in the West Coast, shipping rates for USA only are the following:

Minimum order: 15 pieces at $1.5 a piece. $5 shipping.
From 15 up to 50 = $6 Shipping
From 50 up to 170 = $12 Shipping
From 170 to 300 = $15 Shipping

Any orders over 300 = Free shipping.

Any out of the country orders would have to be calculated on the spot, so inquire via PM’s.

can provide more detailed descriptions or photos if needed. At this moment I have about 2000 cells available, will have more as soon as I sell this batch. Price will either drop or increase depending on demand.

All transactions through paypal only with moneyback guarantee if the quality is subpar.

No ultrafire scam stuff, these are honest, hardworking 3200mah cells.

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Those too? Very interesting.
The nickel strips in the positive terminal look like pain in the ass to remove. Very likely to short them out for people who do pick them up on the wrong end :sweat_smile:


I wonder what is ment by “lightly used”

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Used in a pedal assisted electric bike with a bms that would not discharge lower than 31v and not charge above 41v meaning very light use, and the packs are fairly new. And after testing the capacity shows close to the rated one, therefore the term “lightly” was used in the description.

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Damn… I severely overpaid for my NCR18650 pack xD. (Average $3.2 a cell).

Good luck with the sale!

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You bought brand new cells right? These are used. Lightly used cells are fine but the cycle lifetime is lower, so you are in good shape.


I would also consider trade for motors, esc’s, wheels, remotes, pretty much anything you have esk8 retaled.

Will make good offers.

These are only used by the technical definition. In reality they are 95-97% from new, just with nickel leftovers. Paying 2.2$ difference for 3-5% increase in capacity is unreasonable


OK, I appreciate your opinion. Some of us like the reliability of new cells, which is reasonable.


Also ripping off nickle and sanding the terminals isn’t a fun past time… or it would have already been done.


That’s why they’re so cheap.

Also, you don’t technically need to strip it of old nickel. It’s a bit of an elitist approach to battery pack building. More damage than good.

Spot welding over it or soldering on it works just fine. I’ve sold these to electricians who build powerwalls and they don’t strip them at all.


I’m an elitist so that fits. Good price though if you don’t mind the effort.


I will take some. I want to learn how to built battery packs.


I saw on your other thread that you have cells still linked together in 10s4p and bms together. Would it be possible that I get my cells like that.

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sorry, thats a 13s3p pack, not 10s4p.

These packs , the one with the blue cells, come with a weird bms that only allows to charge through it, not discharge. To discharge you have to tap in the soldered positive and negative on the pack itself, not on the bms.

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This one wont allow any discharge unless its a specific controller that draws it, but it allows the cells to be charged up to 4.1v

if anyone can figure out how to charge and discharge through the main connectors, I will gift them the pack because I suspect I might be wrong

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This is not neccesarily a problem for us, alot of us wire our bms for charge only, discharge bms at high currents are very expensive so we tend to go with the less expensive lower current bms and wire it for charge only. We are able to do this because our Vesc tool let’s us set cut off values for the battery this way we dont over discharge it. So like you said, solder on a main positive and negative lead, and we are good to go.


This is a great point, and if others are reading and unfamiliar with what it takes to build a pack: all should know that it is difficult/impossible to solder or spot-weld onto nickel that has already been welded. You’ll need to work a bit harder than you would with new cells.



between these and the sanyo cells, roughly how many do you have on hand?

i’m in early stages of planning a e-motorcycle and had my eyes on these cells.


What is your testing method, and how many cells have you tested out of your stock?

You can EASILY solder or spot weld on top of these nickel tabs, cutting them off completely is unnecesarry, and a waste of time.

I sold these cells to certified electricians for powerwalls, the did not take the nickel off.