I had been throttling the motor pretty hard. I stopped and noticed some smoke. The board stopped working. I opened up the battery enclosure and saw all of this. The fuse/antispark switch were sitting on top of the battery pack. I’m not sure if the fuse just got super hot and melted, or the battery got super hot and melted the plastic? The “in” female connector on the anti spark switch just came off of the thing. I’m sure I will have to get a new switch now at least. Is there anyone that sells these presoldered with the connecting wires? What have i gotten into here? What could have been the cause of this? If I put a new one in, will it just fry again? I bought this off of someone who built it and don’t have any experience building these, but I know how to solder. Please help! Thank you!!
Looks more like the fuse blew rather than the battery melting it. I’m not sure how cheap antisparks fail, but maybe this is one of the ways.
Flipsky’s smart enhanced antispark has been proven to be reliable, but does not come with connectors soldered on. Soldering XT 90s isn’t as easy as soldering small wires, but if you have a powerful soldering iron, it’s definitely doable. Maybe someone local to you can help out?
I have some extra antisparks if you want to get a replacement quick, it will take some soldering though
My guess is that the “in” female connector on the antispark broke loose due to vibrations/ bad solder job. With bad connection and current comes heat. Plastic melts (but not on the other side of the fuse since there is a better heat spread to the antispark PCB here.
Which means the fuse should still be intact.
Is it? Im curious 
If it was me, I would have soldered the fuse directly instead of using these female connectors.
To me it looks like the connection in the board connector might have not been complete, so maybe it vibrated around and the small bits touching the board fuse connector didn’t have enough contact and got overly hot.
Either way, this does indeed show a benefit of wrapping the battery with heatshrink, that basically saved any cells from damage
Which ones ya got? I might be interested
An unnamed one rated to 100A and a Luna Cycle, I can get pics in a little while for you
So, a new switch and a fuse and hopefully I’m good?
My first guess is loose connection, the fuse was not soldered in.
But that’s a guess
i’ll agree here, the fuse holder melted. if memory serves me right, those holders are rated at max 20A (or 30A… either way it’s low)
Thanks so much for your replies, guys. The orginal builder said that the switch/soldering/wiring was included with the battery pack from Hyperlon. Is Hyperlon still around? That would be sick if I could just get another set up like this or similar instead of having to solder on a circuit board myself.
Short answer is ”absolutely not"
Long Answer:
The list of peeps lookin’ for those fuckers is long and distinguished ahead of you…
pack a lunch!
He’s never coming back. Ditch the anti-spark and get a loopkey.
I mean antisparks can work, just don’t get the cheap FlipSky ones from way back, and don’t abuse them
and don’t get the old vedder switches.
Could just make yourself a kick-ass loopkey holder. Mine looks like a lawn mower handle 
best antispark / eswitch ever is the 300A Flier. 5 fets and a heat sink. Even Jake can keep them working for multiple years.
This guy?