Yeah it is. You should ask for the brand and formula code number instead of saying it doesn’t exist.
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Maybe we should spend time helping people instead of spending time talking about how we can avoid helping them.
Just a thought.
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The red type.
Glad i could help.
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@xsynatic thinks it’s better to spend as much time as possible AVOIDING doing things to help folks not wipe out on their boards.
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Come on dude. You preach stuff like this, then act completely oblivious whenever you could actually do something that makes a difference.
This is not helpful. This just makes people frustrated with you and no knowledge is shared.
“Was it Loctite 271/272 that was on the axle when it failed?”
This is entirely more helpful and gets across your same point. Now a future reader could gain valuable knowledge about this failure when OP is naturally more inclined to respond to your productive discourse as opposed to your bad faith arguing above.
You want helpful change? Make it start with you, and people will certainly follow. But your current strategy of feigning ignorance and bickering just makes the forum a worse place for people to learn.
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To be fair, i had red colored (other brand) on my axles but that stuff was for airsealing thread on pressure tubes and it also breaks out white, didnt know until i read bottle, got bamboozled.
I added some 12V lights to the board.
Hot-glued led ring light at the front.
And these boat-LED bolts in the rear. Unfortunately it looks like they’re not actually one piece of metal, as I was tightening the nut on one of them on the other side the stem of the bolt came loose from the button head with the LED 
I’m happy with the brightness of these. They just need to be bright enough to be visible at night. However I really wish I had tested my 12V buck converter better, because after 1 minute of being on it just turns off / lowers in voltage, such that the front no longer glows and the rear becomes really dim. So ******* annoying. Anyone know of a quality 50V → 12V stepdown? The front draws 60mA, which is only 0.7W of power, so I really don’t need anything powerful.
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Those bolts look really bright. What part number are those, or do you have a link? Are they that bright outside on city streets in traffic?
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Is that a shoulder bolt from the truck hanger? IF so, i have to mention that it is very stupid using these kind of trucks on hub motor boards. Just my 2 cents.
It’s a regular axle, but I don’t think anything would change from using a shoulder bolt as well, given there are appropriate spacers. What makes my shortboard unique from the prebuilt competition is that I have quality precision trucks that won’t bend or break from riding. Well, that + having a remote that won’t drop connection 
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To be fair that axle is a shoulder bolt just with the head machined down. I think what they’re saying is a bolt in round axle rather than a cast or square attached axle is the problem because it can unscrew if the loctite isn’t good enough
I think swapping the side the motor would be a good idea so you won’t back the axle out on braking
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Nice words, but every axle bends or breaks, it just depends on the force and time imo.
On the other hand your board does not deliver that much power to bend any axle, lmao.
Anyways, glad you didnt break your bones 
Good luck solving the problems 
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This
I thought im stupid, so good to know im not.
Btw. Im building reliable hub motor boards for years now, just saying.
And yes, you are right. The motors heat up quickly and soften any loctite or any other threat locker by time. Add the back and forth power of acceleration and braking all the time to the axle and you get your results quickly.
Ehh I don’t think heat is a factor here. Red loctite 2700 doesn’t really care until you’re over 120°C and even then not a lot. The motors themselves probably aren’t hitting 100, never mind having to conduct through the small coupling to the axle and all the way to a big screw joint
The torque though, that’s a different matter
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Ok loctite withstands the heat, maybe, “If” used correctly, but its a mixture of failures. Even if loctite can withstand 120°, does not mean its as strong as it is at 20°. Heat will somehow soften it the one or other way. The axles are heatsinks for hubmotors, so keep that in mind
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The graph is of sustaining high temperatures through the whole assembly for hundreds of hours, and it shows less than a 20% decrease. I know the axle sinks some heat but the stator itself doesn’t even reach high enough temps to seriously damage it. Have you seen how the loaded hubs attach? It’s a small conical sleeve about the size of an axle nut, there’s very little heat transfer to the screw. It’s hard to design good heat transfer through the axle if you’re actively trying
Oh yeah i know how the loaded hubs are mounted. Dont know from experience if the axle heats less bc of mounting, but could be.
All I know for sure is datasheets and real life are 2 different things.
Just an expired or maybe a stored loctite got frozen or something can have massive negative effects.
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