I have to agree
06B-2
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Thatās interesting. I thought the reason I got the jam was that they were too looseā¦ but what youāre saying makes sense.
Actually they should be not too tight nor too loose, either of those can cause issues. In my experience it is better to have it on the tighter side but not too tight. Its pretty easy to set up though and easy to maintain. Best thing about chains, I find them to be bullet proof and thatās why we are releasing a chain drive!
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Yeah, I worked through it with Jens and concluded my chains were set up correctly. Either Iāve been terribly unlucky or youāve been incredibly lucky.
The right track on chain drive development, as far as Iām concerned, is what @Andy87 is doing with his double-stage drive. It keeps all the moving parts as far out of the way as possible.
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incredibly heavy though, so much steel. Its exactly what we didnāt want for these drives. I take it off roading isnāt really your thing? A chain drive thatās as light as possible is there to compete with belt drives in the off road scene. Of course it will never be as light as belts, but its orders of magnitude stronger and more reliable. Mud kills belt drives very quickly, you can go through several belts in one session but if you want that ease of maintaining and something thatās a lot stronger for not too much of a weight penalty then the chain drive is a good choice.
Hard to say but chain drives are old tech, its been done before and quite a few people ride them in the UK. Im not the only person testing our chain drives.
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Well, heavy-er, yeah, but Iāll take that weight penalty over the death penalty any day of the week.
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@Facko chain drive finally getting the attention it deserves and fitted to the Flux
A few mods to the mounts to allow for motor removal and made a cutout to clear the phase wires.
Flux DNA rebornā¦ and now with swappable belt and pulley drivetrain
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Did your motor shafts survive?
I havnt had any trouble with motor shafts at all. I pretty much only use Radium motors nowdays tho.
Truth be told i havenāt used the chains in a while but looking to revive the flux rhis spring/summer. If i can get pulleys to suit the spare motors i have will be ideal.
Did you have problems on 8mm? What brand?
No problems thus far, Iām just not particularly excited for whatās to come. Iām anticipating them breaking, and Iām using old reachers that are on their last legs anyways.
Iād like to switch to 10mm shaft motors after this by finding some generic sprocket online
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Sure , I have:) just send me PM if You need them bro.
Iām using #25 chain - itās 1/4" pitch. For the amount of torque we transfer it might be smaller, lighter and more appropriate than the big chains I see in some of the pictures above.
Granted it doesnāt have the macho factor 
Does anyone here have extremely rusty chains? My chain drive board solely exists for snowy days, so naturally the chains are completely orange. Iāve been using bike chain lube, but I dont think its sticking to the chain due to its speed. What do? lol
Iāve been recommended these dry chain lubricants and waxes. Anyone have experience on those with esk8 chains?
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There is a small but mighty followers of hot melt wax in the cycling world. Maybe in the motorcycle world too? Basically paraffin wax with some proprietary additives that you melt and submerge the chain in. Sold by boutique cycling brands like Silca, but can find cheaper variants as well. The fans swear by its water/dirt repelling properties and longevity, but I have no personal experience. It is certainly a hassle to apply, but they say it penetrates the rollers (where the lubrication is needed, not the plates) much better than the spray-on wax/lube.
I stand corrected: a quick Google search told me that this does not apply well to motorcycle chains.
āImmersion waxing is superb on bike chains because they are completely exposed to the elements. It doesnāt working as well on many motorcycle chains because the rollers often have O-rings, which mean the factory lubrication is essentially protected from outside contamination, but this also means wax wonāt be able to penetrate the gap without damage the O-rings.ā
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I run a non o-ring chain on my mini bike. Every few hundred miles I clean with a toothbrush and kerosene, and lube with maxima spray wax. Maybe do it more often with a smaller esk8 chain.
On my old MTB I used liquid bicycle chain lube but it flung off pretty quick and got loud again. I usually just let em get bad and but a lot of chain for cheap, and brake it down to the required length.
what sort of additives though? I have a big block of paraffin wax. why wouldnāt the wax work alone?
What kind of chain gang?
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I like this stuff.
My challenge is putting it on regularlyā¦
I only do it when they seem obnoxiously loudā¦ Which Is probably too late.
I have not gotten mine as bad as yours, I donāt think
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Believe it or not that picture was after 1 snowy ride. Itās way worse now. Lol. Maybe I should throw them in the ultrasonic cleaner
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