šŸ’© Shitty DIY and nothing else!

love that ā€˜hope basedā€™ phase cable management :joy:

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Iā€™m most worried about those motor wires. They look like they can hit the can during a bump, or short together. And the sensor wires can pop out. I remember reading that sensor wires coming off during a ride could completely burn the ESC.

I just canā€™t understand why an ESC and wiring would just be open mounted like that. Looks legitimately dangerous.

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I had a flakey temp sensor wire that was barely hanging on and it threw 2 drv faults before I caught it

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I think itā€™s a temptation that comes when the ESC comes with a aluminium heatsink case, it feels like itā€™s boxed enough to not require sitting inside an enclosure. BUT there has to be some special care to minimally box or cover the various connection plugs, and really secure the wiring against all kinds of external assaults.

No bare PCB = IP69K

1 Like

custom diy homemade bindings

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lol i might try this XD

Yes. It is true. It will fry it. Shitty days.

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Yup, happened to me recently. :cry:

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None of this is being reused. The Unity that was in here is stuck on, so whomever fixed it, put an anti-spark on top of the BMS. Thatā€™s whatā€™s on the left side of the first picture. The rest is justā€¦kind of a mess.

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Battery wise it looks mostly okay, the balance wires could be more organized but I donā€™t see anything really going wrong there

ā€œfusingā€ at the cell level with the thin nickel strips is odd but should technically work

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This was a high performance [sic] Kaly, set to a limit of 99 max amps on the battery. Series connections are a single 1/4" braid, soldering is really sloppy.

Also, while the idea of cell level fusing itself is fine, the importance lies in how itā€™s implemented. You can kind of see it, but the nickel strips on the negative poles are too thick to be actual fuses. And in many cases, actually differ in thickness from one another. So the idea is fine but the implementation is useless here, and was evidently done without care.

I havenā€™t inspected the rest of the pack closely since the enclosure is literally cracked at every single joint and I donā€™t plan on salvaging much else except the anti-spark switch.

This is, however, the second gen 1 Kaly Iā€™ve opened, and third Iā€™ve seen the inside of.

Currently Iā€™d place every older Kaly board under the ā€œshitty DIYā€ label.

But Iā€™m also a bitter old manā€¦withā€¦standards.

And donā€™t get me started on the unrepairable gear drives.

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Not sure if this is shitty or not. Rides good

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Oh yuck. ABS I assume?

I suppose we can just hope he has gotten better since then

Yep. Every ride kaly Iā€™ve seen with an abs enclosure has cracks as the abs isnā€™t strong enough to withstand constant flexing.

Unfortunately not really. The batteries are still built poorly, and the nickel in the new kaly40 batteries is prone to cracking from excessive flexing

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@Fosterqc come on be real, fucking ductape to extend the life of his sleeves? What a monster.

(Context for others)


grafik

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I wanted to ask him how the gRIP was on them.

They must sell like rubber backed tape somewhereā€¦

I like the cutting up bike tires and screwing them on idea.

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Wonder how Kapton tape would doā€¦

should really just make some 3d printed hubs that fit the standard tape roll diameter, then the science can begin!

3in/75mm core standard it looks like. how to litter a ton.xyz

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Shoud have just remove the sleeves and have Infinite wheel diameter, dynamic contact patch is also nice.

Also the more it wear off the more torque the drive will become.

Best.Hack.Ever.

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He updated his pack. Wires have been replaced with nickel strips :smiley:

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