correction: I said I did not like this method, not true. Only on smaller wires under 14 ish AWG I rather just strip then tin.
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Yeah I use it only for the big stuff too
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bows thank you solder senseiās. lmao.
i just saw it in passing and tried it and liked it. now that im a bit more well read on soldering techniques im gonna practice a whole bunch til my battery gets here.
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Could you edit the title to have āsoldering guideā keyword? @PixelatedPolyeurthan
I wanted to say I realized the other day why the metal forceps are great compared to the ceramic tweezers. The reason is they have teeth so the wires do not slip out. I would love ceramic ones with serrated teeth so the wires can not slip.
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The little nickel strips were still transferring a fair amount of heat in some little tests i did, so i soldered these connections on top of a little heatsink
Not perfect, but definitely soaked away some of the heat
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I wanted to see how the joint looks under that black heat shrink
is it a single layer of shrink?
I think there were two layers. Battery gone now, hopefully never to be seen again
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So lead doesnāt vaporize as your soldering? Just the flux is the main issue. I heard leaded solder is better then lead free. Not sure just saw this and had me curious
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Yep, super common misconception. Ironically I donāt really have a fan, I just try not to breathe the flux fumesā¦ theyāre gross.
I should probably get a fume tube or something soon
either is bad because most of the time theyāre flux core anyways
Hand to mouth with lead solder is the main toxicity part
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Thats good to know. I always had a misconception if lead free is better then with lead. Same time wondering if lead even vaporizes at temperatures above 700F but just turns out the flux is the main reason for all that smoke (i usually go 800 on my iron so it really melts the solder)
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Way better for me.
For bonding, leaded is
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leaded is a game changer
sadly its illegal in the uk so i get mine shipped from germany now 
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At least you still got it. Canāt relate to your situation because I live in the US 
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Bah, good tutorial, only thing Iād like to add is of you use a wet/ damp sponge you can create micro fractures in the soldering tip from being cooled too fast, nothing dangerous, just, the tip will get soft and easily deformable when itās hot, Iāve had this happen a few times, takes some time, for me I think it was about 3-5 months, with the soldering iron being on for about 8 hours a day, thatās all
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The house might need a new heating solution. The iron aināt gonna cut it 
If you have a smart iron like a ts80 it turns off by itself after 5min. Thereās no point in leaving it on, it takes about 20sec for it to reach 400Ā°C.
Plus itās a fire hazard 
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I miss my old master list of all
- Kester
- AIM Metals
- MG Chemicals
Solder models. Itās been years since Iāve seen it, on an old ass hard drive and no google search has ever brought it up again.
In general, the is absolutely no reason to use solder with any silver in it whatsoever for our/related hobby uses, same for unleaded unless youāre doing highly sensitive PCBs which I think barely exist in esk8, or have small kids in the houseā¦ that both have access to your shop area in the first place (that is bad & your own fault) & donāt know not to touch it.
Chipquik not included in list for its own specialty reasons.
I am a bit surprised we have had nobody who makes their own custom soldering tips out of thick copper wire make their way to this forum yet. New a guy who did that from another old hobby of mine, was cool shit.
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I Mean i use leaded and silver on phase wires but my weller can keep up. (the phase motors are more quiet though)
Opinions on this?
The first connector I did I used the āmesh-spliceā method of trying to interlace all the fine wires and then soak in solder. The wires are too fine to interlace by more than a couple mm. Kinda turned into a big ball. So on this one I tried tinning both wires and soldering them side by each.
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is this silver solder?