I followed what Dani did here.
It is my favorite enclosure.
Had to make mine a bit taller.
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Was actually just doing some research on this, pretty excited about this thread.
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Spud enclosure I made and used (step file as well).
DIY Skateboard Spud Enclosure found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2867594
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Once I finish my project, I will post the stl’s on Thingiverse for those that are interested
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Thank you @mishrasubhransu for starting the thread and everyone for the contributions!
I have realized that every time someone mentioned having used a 3D printed enclosure for a long time, it had cracked. Is it a design issue or simply a materials and stress-level issue?
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I made a quick and cheap relatively temporary enclosure by 3d printing it in vase mode at around 1.2 mm thick. It took 14 hours as far as I remember, which is relatively quick for something that big. I sanded the surface and then applied fibreglass onto it. Total cost was around £15. Here is a photo of the 3d printed enclosure after sanding but before applying fibreglass:
Im on mobile and can’t find a finished photo, but you can go onto my build thread and see some.
I have around 300-400 miles on it already and it is holding fine, with no cracks, even after a few times hitting the curb or large speed bumps with the enclosure.
EDIT: here is the finished result:
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3D print + Fiberglass seems to work. But what’s the advantage over just fiberglass (using wooden mold)?
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Depends on the material and also thickness. Also stress level issue, be it supple deck or taking hits on the road.
Depends.
- If your deck flexes
- What material you use. Nylon won’t break.
- Is it skinned with glass fiber or not
- Is it printed single or in smaller segments that can move independently
- How thick the part is to sustain impact from tiny rock hits etc
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I liked it because it is really low effort to make. You can probably win 0.5-1 mm thickness by using fibreglass over a mold, and by using a negative mold you can get a perfect surface finish too.
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I’m definitly more for that ! Or better use complexe print as mold too.
That’s beautiful
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Trampa VESC6 Dual enclosure
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@Lee_Wright, in the forum adjustment thread we talked about how “serious” explains itself better than SRO, so I am changing it back.
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ok mate must have missed that! doh!
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Yup, now that I see it in practice, “serious” is much better.
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Hi there.
I tried printing some enclosure as well.
But I kind of struggle to finish it for months.
First it was supposed to be enclosure for a 12s7p pack out of 18650 cells:
Cells were supposed to have welded tabs then glued and soldered to a PCB, thick silicone wires soldered to PCB along with thin balance wires, which would sneak between the PCB and the deck to connect between 4 of those and 5th enclosure for electronics.
I couldn’t figure out a good way to guide those cables in a good way without printing some thicc lid or cutting a channel in the deck.
Anyway I would barely fit all those cells under the deck, no space for electronics enclosure at all, so I gave up on this amount of cells, decided to go for 12s5p instead and dumped the previous design.
So new design.
I still want to use welded tabs to cells then soldered to some PCB, but now PCB is going between enclosure and cells so I have good access to the channel inside:
PS this is a unfinished enclosure so it’s missing mounting holes etc.
Now that I have some spare space between the cells I can put there my wires.
But I’m stuck again.
How do I get wires through holes in enclosure so that these can move a bit when deck is flexing but also it’s water tight?
Or should I just have them fixed with tight grommets and not worry about them breaking?
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If the wire is close to the surface of the board then even when it flexes the wire doesn’t stretch.
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