Maybe the green kind used for filling in gaps for gear pinions would work, but I’m a big proponent of mechanical solutions that don’t require threadlocker.
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Agreed. If it meant I could utilise my radium evolve mounts I’d order a set in a heartbeat.
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I don’t think that is going to be enough. I think the solution is epoxy. My trucks developed the play others are experiencing. I am thinking about using JB weld.
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Yes, this has been an issue for some, which I don’t like. Since there are an even number of sides, and an odd number holes, one could rotate the adapter 8 times to get a new position, (2.36 degrees). This is cool, but, in reality not totally necessary. Actually, the last few sets I’ve sent out, I pressed those adapters on, and haven’t heard of any complaints of lack of adjustment. (There are still 21 holes)
Going forward, they all will be pressed on. I 100% agree with @rusins in mechanical over a retaining compound.
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is my set one of the few that’s pressed on? the order that was shipped to Hong Kong
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If there is a significant amount of play, (the kind that would develop over time) I agree that epoxy would be better. But, if they don’t have slop, but rather just slide on like the first couple batches, then green compound like 609 will be just fine. But, like I said above, the new adapters will press on.
Another change coming is a reduced angle for the front truck. I have talked about this before, but never gotten around to it yet.
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Yes, I believe so. (Can you pull them off?)
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i can only check that when i get home from work. will report back in about 10hrs 
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You mean the rear, right? Why make the front lower angle than the rear?
Also the tall bushing compatible front baseplate is 
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Mmm a shallower rear baseplate for split angles would be great. 
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This is also an issue that I realize. I work 45-50 hrs per week building automated machinery, and have fit Eska8 in where I can thus far. (This makes for less riding time for me)
I machine every part personally, and have given consideration to outsourcing this. But I just cannot do that.
The only option that would make it financially feasible, would be made in China, which I absolutely refuse. The “western world” or, shall I say, anti communist, should try as hard to move away from this. Not trying to be political, but I disagree with the Russian agenda, and China’s support.
That said, have made significant moves to provide more machining for Eska8 right here in Denver.
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Good things come to those who wait.
Don’t change Phil.
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actually i can pull one side, but not the other i didn’t put much force on it, just palm closing grip force
the side that i can move is only about 3 or 4mm, its the right side if i have the bushing facing me if u r wondering
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Okay, I didn’t send you the pressed on adapters then. Check for any play while trying to rotate the adapters about the hanger. If there is none, than you are good with the handle securing both.
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My Savage trucks arrived and they look fantastic. I am adding them to my Meepo Hurricane Ultra. Any help with the transition would be greatly appreciated.
Looks like I mount the trucks on the bottom of the deck (rather than on the top with the trucks extending downward through the deck as it came from Meepo).
My 10mm bearings did not come with spacers. 1- Do I need spacers given that the Meepo wheels contain an internal ledge preventing the the bearings from moving too far inward? 2- If I need spacers can I use a stack of washers in place of a single-piece spacer or do I need to find a proper spacer?
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The purpose of spacers is primarily to avoid lateral forces applied to the inner race of the bearing,
It’s entirely possible to run them without spacers. That being said, if you’re running without spacers you are always pretty much 1 turn of a wrench from obliterating your bearings if you over tighten them.
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Spacers will make your bearings run smooth when you tighten the axle nuts. They are reccomended. They should press on the inner bearing race only. Washers can work if they’re the right size and don’t rub on the bearing shield or outer race, but purpose made ones will be easier (you’ll need lots of washers…)
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I am installing my new Savage trucks and the quality looks fantastic. I just realized that the octagonal mounts do not bolt in place and appear to be held in position by the handle. There is a lot of leverage between the handle and the octagonal mounts so it seems that there could be some movement or play in the motor mounts after things get worn in a bit. I guess this is the topic of gluing discussed above.
Am I missing something or doing something wrong?
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Some of recent ones I’ve sent out are pressed on. I don’t recall if yours pressed on or not. If they are, there will be no issues.
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