Guys, I see that number 3 may have new font as many original Samsungs seem to have it like that. But number under wrap also seem to be a bit off?
What do you think? Those cells cane all exactly 3.556-3.560 (with in 0.004 precision)
Can they be fake or real?
Where did you source them from?
fake bro ill throw them away for you send em
Id say fake, test them get a LiitoKala l500 and see what the IR is you never know they might be ok ish, if you do test them and the IR is low 20 30 ohms they will be high ish current output, 40 50 ohms or higher wont be very good.
If you cant get your money back, what i would do is test them all and try to balance each cell with the same IR, thats if they are any good.
Box doesnt look very Samsungish, and the print doesnt either. There would also be cardboard / paper, keeping each cell apart from each other.
The print isn’t even level, doesn’t even make sense, dont think a company like Samsung with high quality standards would let those go. Someone has knocked those up in their garden shed.
You have no clue what you are talking about, do you?
If they are real, they might be re-wrapped, the wraps look a little odd to me
I believe it was a joke. People do anything to get free cells these days lol.
Lol I was fairly certain but couldn’t help but call it out, can’t have noobs taking it seriously, however I think in this 50/50 case maybe he got the right answer
Once we know who supplied the cells maybe that will help.
My guess is that they’re from a vape site
Fakes of ultra-high capacity cells can have the same internal resistance and capacity as the genuine ones and most people don’t have very accurate ways of measuring either and just accept numbers that are close. The counterfeiters know that.
The cardboard box can be something the reseller/distributor did or this can be an “internal” box from a larger pack that are boxed together as a case by Samsung.
The printing on the wrap isn’t a reliable way to authenticate a cell. It can vary greatly by factory and over time. I’ve seem some ridiculously wavy and crappy printing from the large manufacturers. These cells are never, ever supposed to be seen by the end user so there’s no big need to have the printing be perfect. I don’t see anything wrong for this printing.
Really crappy printing can be a clue that the cell might be a fake but can’t, on its own, tell us anything.
The printing on the wrap indicates that those are 2020-dated Revision 3 cells. The codes on the metal can look okay for the Samsung 35E but good fakes will have all the correct codes too. The embossed characters on the venting disk are typical for Samsung cells but can’t be used to identify which Samsung.
For Samsung 18650’s there should also be a character, or characters, embossed on the bottom of the cell near the outer rim. The white top ring insulator should also be free-floating for all big manufacturer cells and not be glued down to the cell. If the top ring insulator is self-adhesive then that cell is a fake.
The indented crimping ring, near the top along with the associated tooling marks seem okay (see photo below, ignore the can codes as they are old)
There are no indicators yet that those are fakes but really good fakes would look the same. 
Samsung 35E’s are rated at only 8A and will be high internal resistance cells, measuring closer to 40-50mOhm than 20-30mOhm.
Seems the newer version doesn’t have an internal resistance test. I find them problematic anyway with the contacts having a big effect
This thing or maybe a higher current one should be a good revealer I think
You brought up a good point. Measuring the delivered capacity down to, lets’s say, 3.2V to 3.0V at a higher discharge level is indeed a good way to find fakes. Going all the way down to 2.5V won’t expose the differences in voltage sag nearly as well.
Most of the fakes now have close to the same capacity as the genuine cells when measured at the standard 0.2C discharge rate. The counterfeiters know how easy it is to check capacity so they get cells that match that well.
Cell can appearance and performance testing at levels near or at the cell’s claimed current rating are about the only good way to detect decent fakes. Unfortunately both of those checks are a lot harder to do as one requires a known genuine cell and 5x-10x loupe and the other method requires specialized equipment.
Units like the one you liked to can work well if they can discharge near the cell’s genuine current rating. It gives you a chance to check cell temperature too. If the suspect cell is running a lot hotter than a genuine cell that’s a good sign that it’s a fake.
I’m using fake cells on my street board. My trick is to at least double normal number of P. Instead of 12s5p, I built 12s10p.
No fireworks so far. Heck! the pack dun even heat up the slightest on my daily commute.
By “fake” I mean those no-brand oem cells. They perform almost as good as genuine samsung 35E compared to this test result.
Tested samples using lii-500 for internal resistance and load tester for capacity and current. Didn’t test how many cycles it can go.
I have posted in such manner to really see if I was correct
I told some one that people with LEAST experience and knowledge will be jumping to negative concussion right away even when you show them real cell. While more experienced and knowledgeable people will always do an analysis of sort and conclude positive or mixed fillings about subject that was posted in rather negative connotation.
And so far this has been proven, specially much on Facebook haha - lots of “100% fake as shit” .
Thanks every one for answering 
J35E on metal is new metal print normal and the new font is is now normal thing - Warning sign has got through 2 versions now. newer cells have a slightly better wording.
