We could arrange that, sure. Shipping batteries is prohibited by most carriers, but we live pretty close so maybe we can arrange something next time I go to Daugavpils. Or just YOLO and hope that Omniva don’t x-ray the packages they ship.
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Holy rust, batman!
I’m swapping my motor cans to Apex ones so that I can use their jump drives without needing to apply threadlocker to the motor pinions. 
Hopefully the old cans don’t cause trouble for my travel build. Gonna try and clean them with WD-40 best I can…
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I need to make an update post here about the board, because it’s finished! But I’m short on time right now so I’ll just give a short review of the Apex jump drives!
First, the sound profile. Unfortunately they are loud, because they are steel on steel. However they are nowhere near as loud as steel straightcuts, where you can’t even have a conversation with the person using them. And they also don’t suffer from the god-awful free-roll sound most steel gear drives suffer from, that sounds like scraping / rocks inside the drive / more like chains. These drives sound really good, and at low speeds you can even hit a “silent” sweet-spot. I think most people will be very pleased with the sound profile of these drives, even though for me it’s the biggest downside, because I prefer a completely quiet drivetrain. (And spoilers: there are no other downsides! 
)
Also, because the drives aren’t silent, definitely get Apex motors for these. The flipsky motor resonance sound really doesn’t matter if the drivetrain is nearly as loud.
Also also, I’ll record a video later showing how these drives sound from a 3rd person perspective (no wind noise).
Freeroll: It’s… amazing! Granted, I am running 9" tires, but the drives spin so well I could nearly get my robogotchi to completely boot up with the whole startup jingle just spinning the wheels by hand 
(I’m running 5.5 ratio btw) While riding I can safely let go of the throttle and barely even feel the board pulling me back. Very confidence inspiring when in bindings!
Assembly: Takes some time at first, but is nowhere near as cumbersome as Moon drives with all the spacers, and the instruction manual is very helpful. Also the apex motors with the 2nd circlip groove for holding the motor pinions in place – absolutely genius! Not having to get a torch out to do a motor / pinion swap is soooooooo nice!
(I did have one motor with a slightly longer shaft, so I had to steal a small shim from another motor to get a tight fit. Would be cool if Apex included some shims in case others have the same issue)
Design: The drives look sexy and they don’t weigh much either. Ground clearance is great. 10/10
Attaching wheels: I’m a firm believer that all drivetrains going forward should allow wheels to be quick-swapped. This is why my travel build is getting these drives, because tire changes on the side of the road are a total breeze thanks to this feature.
In conclusion:
This is THE BEST ESK8 DRIVETRAIN ON THE MARKET, hands down. For most people this is a no-compromises drivetrain only made better by Apex’s fast shipping times and excellent customer support. Unless it’s a urethane board, this is the only drivetrain I am buying going forward. It’s that damn good.
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Have you tried BN m1-AT? Any comparison thoughts?
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I’ve seen a lot of BN drives have the helical pinions come loose, or wheel bolts / star plates get chewed up due to the small contact area. In real life I really didn’t like their sound. That being said @JoeyZ5 somehow got a magical pair of them that are dead quiet. Or he just set them up with literally 0 backlash. I was hoping to achieve the same on my jump drives, but didn’t manage. Maybe I’ll succeed with my 2nd pair
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I’ll say my BN m1-AT helicals are awesome. They’re super quiet and I’ve never had any pinion issues. And with the new wheel adapter, I’m up to a few hundred miles now without any visible wear. My drive screws actually have more wear.
That being said, I’m eventually going to build a top-mounted jumper style board, and the Jump Drives are seeming like the best option for sure…
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Jackson, poast and I all run loose backlash because BRRRR.
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Hmm, that would explain my impressions then
Funny though that 2 of those guys are now on Jump drives too 
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Wow, high praise indeed - thanks man. We love them as well of course, just taking ours through the second winter with them. Cough - there may be Black Friday deals on Jump drives (
)
Noted on the shims, we will look at doing that but you are the first person reporting this - hoping it’s just a one off motor with bad shaft tolerances.
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Funny way of calling me broke. I’ve had it with my BN drives too.
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Added a duck handle so that I can U-lock my board outside places
This board is treating me well, but I have 2 minor issues with it.
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Since I ride in the rain, snow and mud with this board, the OSRR remote throttle has gotten sticky, which is pretty dangerous. Going to switch it out to a Maytech waterproof remote. Should help me control the board with thick gloves.
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Even though I’m running sensors, the board acts as if it’s on HFI sometimes. From standstill / at low speed one motor will sometimes spazz out, make sounds, refuse to push me forwards. In Metr this shows up as an ABS overcurrent fault on one ESC
I think I will switch to FW 6 and redo detection and see if anything is up.
Cough The REAL BOTY cough 
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i’ve had a similar issue. it was caused by water making a small amount of corrosion on one of the hall sensors messing up the vesc reading.
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Went out for a ride today with my father who was on skiis.
Riding along the dug out track from cars is difficult because of the width of my trucks.
On the other hand, I noticed today that I can’t actually fully strap in my front foot if I’m in my winter boots, because then I get toe-bite and heal-bite from the front Luna truck
I either need wider trucks, or a different geometry 
Also the motor cables sticking out really hurt when I take a fall
Also also the motor stalling at low RPMs instead of giving me the torque I need is really annoying. Need to finally deal with that.
And idk if it’s the riding conditions or weather (shouldn’t be, my ESCs kept the inside case at 15-18 degrees the whole time I think), but I am NOT getting the 50km range I had hoped for.
More like 30km if I had to guess.
Btw @rpasichnyk there’s a gap in my Metr log from 16:02 to 16:21; the last part was in a separate log that I merged. Any idea why my Metr CAN would have stopped logging for 20 minutes, and then started up again? 
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Need to look at log file from that day, please share from Metr app → Settings → Show Logs.
I just discovered that Trampa has a mudguard kit for boards! 
How have I not seen this yet? I desperately need mudguards for rainy days!
@Trampa What are the dimensions for the clamps you offer? I need 22x22mm for my mountainboard and 20x18mm for my street boards…
The standard ones should be 22x22 and the precision ones are 19.5x19.5
shiit im pickup up a set
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I swapped my Trampa ESC to a Stormcore so that I could use the new sensorless startup modes in FW 6. Will test and report back. If it’s bad on off-road conditions then I will try to DIY external encoders (lol doubt I’ll resort to that, probably just sell the board at that point)
Didn’t use thermal paste this time, will try thermal pads if my ESC temps rise. Getting the heatsink apart was really hard with the quantity I applied 
Luckily a heat-gun helped.
Also – I have no idea how (because I used small bolts) but the 2 parts of the heat-sink don’t sit flush; somehow the bolts aren’t aligned with the holes. I really dislike the infinity heat-sink design.
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VSS has been working great for me in the city I’m currently still playing it safe with startup acceleration, but so far so good.
Today I installed the Maytech waterproof remote. Thank you @KaramQ for the deal! 
I should probably open up and clean the puck I’ve been using until now, it definitely got sprayed with mud a fair bit… mud guards are next on the todo list for this board
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Excited to see how you like the split trigger!