Well, there’s the baseplate on the other side, so I’d need to use flathead bolts I guess to make it work. But it looks like there are lots of generic options, so that’ll probably be what I end up doing. Thanks!
Yeah, probably something like this will work for me.
Offtopic, but wow! This is the thing I use to attach my SL-1000 to my backpack, and it’s awesome. Only 2€ on aliexpress! Highly recommend it
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You’re in your own thread, how can you be off topic 
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I mean screw it in the deck, not bolt it.
That would be already strong enough.
Optional you could just use thread repair helicoils.
They work very well on those decks.
That’s what I mean:
M3/M4/M5/M6/M7/M8/M10/m12/M14 Gewinde Reparatur Bit Kit
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I’m gonna flag it, we can’t have people breaking the rules
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NESE battery testing update
Pinging @Agniusm
I cleaned up all the cells with a dremel. Put them in the new 12s6p modules I had purchased, and built the battery:
The new cells I had replaced last time looked good as new, so I didn’t even touch those. The middle arcing spots I couldn’t remove from some of the cells, but the surface was clean (I used the polishing dremel attachment), so it looked good enough. (Forgot to take pictures, sorry!)
Due to its size I could only put a thin layer of foam underneath the battery, and some foam blocks on one side in the enclosure. This is a vibration survival test after all, so don’t want to baby it too much. The packs are wrapped together with fiberglass tape the best I could.
24h later (to let the blue threadlocker cure) I went out on a test ride. (Note that a lot of the road was very bumpy, my helmet was even shaking! But I turned on video stabilization when editing to make the footage more watchable. Would have recorded on the 360 cam, but unfortunately I broke my selfie stick while doing the april fools antenna joke lol )
and as my luck would have it – at 14:30 one of my Moon gears broke. Great 
Need to get some steel gears asap. I wasn’t even doing anything that extreme, so I’m very disappointed.
Anyway, I got back home, and opened up the first 3 modules to check on the cells. The very first module contains the new cells, so any signs of arcing on those would mean a failure. Aaaaand, look what we have –
Even the new cells now show that middle arcing point pattern:
I will disassemble the battery fully a bit later and take pictures if there are cells in even worse condition. But yeah – I think I’ve lost my faith in NESE… I might still use them, but only with a thick layer of foam around them to protect them against vibrations.
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2 bummers in one ride 
Thank you for digging in deep to this nese issue.
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Disassembly of drives
Man, that’s a lot of rust!
Wheel gears broke on the lip. Known problem with early batch Moon drives. Will be getting replacement gears, and then selling the drives along with the Matrix 2 trucks, and my set of MBS rockstars and 8" shitslinger tires.
My trails are better for 9" I think, and I can’t be bothered swapping between the setups.
Other drive looks fine, but also a fuck ton of rust.
Replacing this will be Moon drives with steel gears on an Apex Air hanger in the rear, and a Luna 350 truck in the front. Going to be building a 12s8p battery while I wait for that.
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That is a lot of rust. Far out! A lot of riding in the wet I presume?
I guess snow and salt covered roads will do that to ya. But to be honest I think I can count the number of total times I’ve ridden this board with my two hands still lol.
And not in binary you nerds
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That’s shocking… I opened mine up a few weeks ago after a winter of riding and I saw zero rust 
Wonder what the difference is.
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Probably salt. Also you have titanium bolts 
I’ll probably need to buy some too
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Incredible test data. No matter the conclusion, this type of dedicated testing is super valuable. Thanks for documenting it!
What kind of fasteners are those? Looks like black oxide coated steel maybe?
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@moon would know, but I believe so. I wonder if my wheel bolts are stainless or just nickel coated steel, because they look good as new.
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Haha I only used those on the cosmetic/visible parts. All the inside bolts were the stock ones.
Gotta be the salt.
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Yes
I have black zinc plated bolts on order
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bright zinc plated
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@rusins i have taken appart my 20s7p battery. I had some melted modules and they have melted due to busbars getting loose. My bike does not have suspension so i will need to apply some loctite.
The tabs inside has some black marks but they are no different than some unused tabs would have and none on the cells. This pack i have is 3 years old now. Took some photos to compare
I am drawing 150A max on this bike.
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How is the balance on your p-groups looking? Because I did have that 1 p-group die 
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They stay balanced even with loose connections, within hundreds of a volt. I still think about yours going like that and it still baffles me what is the cause. If it was an issue i suppose i would hear about it all the time but yours is a single known case unless i am under reported. I wander if you have single populated module you could borrow me for somentime? I’ll pay the post both ways.
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