Incoming battery packs from @TinnieSinker and @torqueboards as well as an enclosure so my garage fun time will be back in full swing hopefully by the weekend.
I just want to get in there and build (break) stuff! Will put some progress pics up by the end of the week.
So far edit from my original post:
Parts:
Deck: Santa Cruz 41” Concave - Existing board, now worried it is too flexible (edit: who cares will be fun experience)
Trucks: TB’s 218mm (Delivered and installed)
Wheels: TB’s 97mm (Delivered and installed)
Motor: TB’s 6374 190kv x2 (paid) (Delivered and installed)
Drive: TB’s motor mount kit (outwards), 15mm belt, 16T Motor Pulley (Delivered and installed)
ESC: Either - 2 x TB’s ESC or 2 x single FSESC6.6 over the Dual, or Unity (not convinced on dual) (not paid) (edit: Unity delivered and looking pretty)
Controller: No idea yet (Edit: Currently researching)
Battery: 12s4p with C/D BMS - One built by someone on here and one built by me (Edit: Bought 12s4p from TinnieSinker and 12s4p from TB’s because, why not, I will want another board! I also want time to build my own without the pressure to ride it instantly)
I do actually need to remove all of the mech parts now that I’m confident of their placement and blue loctite those bad ass muthafuckers back in place. I am also going to attempt making my own enclosure (bought a vendor one also just to keep me sane).
Anyway, I feel comfortable with it so far, but if anyone sees anything glaringly stupid. Please, shout at me.
Not trying to shit on your cake but this is actually pretty important to consider, especially in builds that have elongated battery packs.
The flexing of the deck can wear at your pack and (potentially, if the flex is great enough) make your connections snap. It could result in either a broken battery, or a big ol fire.
You can always use a pelican (other brands are available) box on the middle of your board to store the battery + electronics). That way the flex of your board won’t impact the components, and less worrying about the enclosure fitting perfectly.
@torqueboards hey just to double check - the motor mount and clamp came with 1 grub screw per side but there are 3 stew holes - should there be a grub screw in every hole?
Also, @Dareno@Brenternet I’m about to desolder the female bullet connectors from my Unity and solder the 5mm bullet connectors on so I can connect to my motor bullets. Before I go to surgery, any other suggestions?
Anyone used @torqueboards enclosure and 12s4p pack? The enclosure doesn’t quite cover the battery with the Velcro straps (protrudes a few mm) so it doesn’t sit flush.
Also, will need to extend the motor and sensor cables to reach the enclosure and Unity
Thats a home run mate the heat shrinked adaptors does trigger my ocd… Unity stick with a vx1 and upgrade the battery to 1000mah ($8) vx2 has issues atm with unity.
My TB motors come with a 6 pin JST plug 1.5mm pitch, but the Unity has 2mm pitch plug - I’m going to remove the TB plug and replace with a 2mm plug; is that what people normally do when using sensor cables with Unity?
I had the same, disconnect seems to have just come from the 6mm side simply being not tough enough to handle the vibrations. The adaptor got wedged against another wire and couldn’t move and I suppose vibrations did the rest.
It’s like a cement mixer in there while you ride . Never had a 5.5 disconnect before at all. So for me that’s just the way to go, a simple strong connection.
. Never had a 5.5 disconnect before at all. So for me that’s just the way to go, a simple strong connection.